Good floors.
Personal service.
Wholesale access.

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PRE-INSTALLATION

Desertland Flooring Floating Floors are highly durable floor covering systems composed of a Stone Polymer Composite (SPC) core. Following the instructions in this guide are required to ensure your floor is attractive, longlasting, and covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. These instructions apply to residential, light-commercial/multi-family, and commercial flooring installations. SPC Floating Floors are intended for interior use only and are suitable for above grade, on grade, and below-grade applications.

EXPANSION

Floating Floors should be allowed to expand and contract freely. Make sure to not glue, nail, or fasten a Floating Floor to the subfloor in any way. Doing so may lead to a flooring failure. Exception: stair treads and risers (see stair installation requirements). Permanent cabinets, vanities, islands and similar items should be installed prior to installing a Floating Floor. Ensure to leave a 1/4” inch gap around the perimeter. Floating Floors can be installed under vanities with legs. Avoid acrylic caulking and anything intended as an adhesive.

PROTECT

Protect your floor from exposure to direct sunlight via the use of window treatments or UV-tinting on windows. Discoloration to SPC Floating Floors may occur due to UV fading resulting from direct sunlight exposure. UV/radiant heating from direct sunlight can also cause the temperature of the flooring to rise well above the ambient room temperature leading to damage.

OVERAGE ALLOWANCES

Order 5-10% more flooring than square footage needed to account for cuttings and waste. Failing to purchase enough materials for the job, or not keeping materials for repairs, may result in different dye lots on a future order or products being discontinued. Dye lots (batch numbers) are not recommended to be mixed.

PRODUCT INSPECTION

Check to ensure your flooring is in its original packaging and free from any visible damage or defects. Inspect all material for correct color, design, batch number, size and quantity to finish the job.

NOTE:

• Some patterns are intended to have high shade variation. Single sample chips may be part of a set from a variegated pattern. It is the responsibility of the dealer and buyer to seek out pattern info prior to purchasing/installing.
• Avoid installing material from different batches across large areas.

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It is possible for there to be slight shade and milling variations across products from different batches/dye lots. This is due to slight variations within industry tolerances that occur during different dates of manufacturing. Generally, this will not be noticeable unless batches are mixed, or side-matching is attempted such as during repairs or later installations. Batches that are close in production runs may be able to be mixed. This should be verified by the contractor/installer prior to installation to verify product batch compatibility. Intermixed batches that are not compatible or do not match is the responsibility of the contractor/installer.

SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS

1. The subfloor must be level to within 3⁄16” in a 10ft. (4.76mm in a 3m) span or 1/8” in a 6ft. (3.175mm per 1.8m) span or otherwise appropriate ratios of this requirement; no high or low spots. 2. Subfloors should not slope more than 1/2” per 6ft. (25mm per 1.8m). Must be structurally sound without deflection. 3. Must be clean: no construction debris, dust, soil, mud or any other objects on or adhering to the floor; if necessary, scrape and sweep away before the installation; no protrusions of nails, debris, or metals should remain. 4. 4. Even though SPC Floating Floors are waterproof, moisture levels must still be checked in order to protect the surrounding structure, protect the subfloor, prevent pH damage, damage arising from hydrostatic pressure, and prevent a situation in which mold and/or mildew could grow. For this reason, SPC Floating Floors should not be used to seal an existing floor from moisture. SPC Floating Floors will not act as a waterproofing barrier for the subfloor and/or any surrounding structure. 4.1. Moisture requirements vary from one subfloor material to another. The subfloor must be free from moisture-related conditions that can damage the installed flooring. All subfloors must fall within the parameters of ASTM F710. 4.2. Moisture Testing: Test all subfloors for moisture content and document the results. Visual checks are not reliable. The Relative Humidity should not exceed 85% RH. 4.3. pH Testing: The subfloor should have a pH level between 5.0 and 9.0. Readings below 5.0 and above 9.0 can affect resilient flooring and adhesives negatively. 4.4. In the absence of such testing, a suitable moisture vapor barrier must be in place before installing a Floating Floor. Suitable moisture vapor barriers are non-permeable (6 MIL plastic sheeting or roll on elastomeric membranes).

CRAWL SPACES

The concrete slab or ground must be dry. Ensure that crawl spaces have open vents year-round to ensure proper air circulation and prevent moisture build-up. Crawl space clearance between the earth and underside of joists should be no less than 18” (45.7cm) and the perimeter vent area should be equal to 1.5% of the total square footage of the crawl space or as mandated by code. Crawl spaces should be insulated and have a vapor barrier covering exposed earth.

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ACCEPTABLE SUBFLOOR TYPES

It is possible to install a Floating Floor over many existing floor coverings, provided they are stable and firmly fixed. Existing flooring cannot be soft, damaged, loosely laid, more than a single layer, or exceed 1/2” thick. Remove carpet, needle felt, cushion vinyl, perimeter glued products, or any floating floor. You may install directly over any existing hard surface flooring provided they are a single layer, meet flatness requirements, and are suitable for receiving vinyl flooring. Mexican pavers and similar types of flooring may not be flat and even enough to receive vinyl flooring. This unevenness may require correcting to make it suitable for receiving vinyl flooring. Existing floors must be firmly attached to the structural subfloor. Fill in grout lines larger than 1⁄4” (6mm) on any form of tile or similar floors with a cementitious leveling and patching compound. All substrates (including existing flooring) to receive vinyl flooring shall be: dry, clean, smooth and structurally sound. They shall be free of: residual adhesive (including cutback adhesive), adhesive removers, alkaline salts, excessive carbonation/laitance, mold, mildew, dust, wax, oil, grease, solvent, paint, or curing, sealing, hardening/parting compounds, or any other foreign materials. DO NOT apply moisture barriers over wood subfloors. DO NOT install any Desertland Flooring product over sleeper floor construction, wood that lies directly on concrete, etc. Sleeper floors and other wood structures on top of concrete that do not meet the crawl space requirements can create moisture issues beneath the subfloor that will be trapped by the flooring’s waterproof properties. This can lead to mold, mildew, or even wood rot of the subfloor construction.

NON-APPROVED SUBFLOORS

• Carpeting/Carpet PAD • Parquet Over Concrete
• Cork • Cushioned Vinyl Flooring
• Engineered Hardwood • Sleeper Substrates
• Floating Floors • Rubber
• Laminate

RADIANT HEATING SYSTEM

Ensuring stable job site conditions, subfloor suitability and proper acclimation are especially important when installing over a radiant heat system. It is the responsibility of the installer/owner to ensure that the recommended environmental conditions are met for installation.

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Refer to your radiant heat system manufacturer to determine its compatibility with vinyl flooring, and to learn the specific requirements for installation. It is recommended that the user consults with the radiant heating provider for best practices, installation methods, and proper subfloors. In-floor radiant components must be a minimum of 1⁄2” (13mm) below flooring. The surface temperature of the slab should never exceed 85°F (29°C). The heating system should be operational for at least two weeks prior to installation to calibrate temperature settings. Flooring cannot be laid directly over radiant heating mats. 3-days prior to installation lower the temperature to 65°F (18°C). After installation, gradually adjust the temperature in increments of 5°F per day to avoid rapidly heating and cooling the flooring which could lead to damage. The use of an in-floor temperature sensor is recommended to avoid overheating.

AVAILABLE MOLDINGS

Coordinated moldings and transitions are available for all Floating Floor products. These are necessary to allow for the transition of one product to another, around doorways, areas where the flooring flows into other hallways or rooms, etc. Follow molding requirements outlined above in conjunction with the molding installation instructions.

UNDERLAYMENTS

Floating Floor products already have attached pad Underlayment. No other underlayments are necessary. Additional underlayments may result in a reduction in the sound rating and may even undermine the flooring’s integrity leading to damage to the locking mechanism/clips. Leggett & Platt’s Whisper Step® or an underlayment meeting the same specifications of density, thickness and material type may be used with Floating Floor products if desired. Please follow the manufacturer’s specifications and directions for installation in conjunction with a floating floor.

INSTALLATION OF THE FLOOR COVERING

Whether you’re a pro or DIY homeowner, installing an SPC Floating Floor couldn’t be easier. No power saws needed; Floating Floor scores and snaps with a simple utility knife.

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ACCLIMATION

• Stack boxes no more than 4 cartons (4ft.) high and space out the stacks. Keep away from direct sunlight.
• Flooring does not need to be taken out of the boxes, just opened at the ends.
• It is important that flooring products maintain a constant temperature between 65°F (18°C) and 85°F (29°C) for 48 hours prior to, during, and 72 hours after installation.
• Thereafter, maintain a room and floor temperature between 60°F (15.5°C) and 95°F (35°C). A HVAC system must be on and function.

PREP

• Prepare subfloor to be dry, smooth, level, clean and dust-free.
• See subfloor and substrate requirements prior to installation.

INSTALL

Follow these critical steps for a successful installation. 1. Choose starting wall 2. Determine an installation pattern

Visual descriptions: Diagram descriptions: Random layout uses staggered end joints with varying plank lengths. Subway layout offsets alternate rows in a repeating brick pattern. Diagonal layout places the planks at an angle to the walls.

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3. Determine how many planks are needed length and width wise from wall to

wall.

3.1. Measure your starting wall 3.2. Divide the length of the wall by the length of the plank. This will determine how many planks will be needed for each row.

4. Spacers

4.1. Set 1⁄4” (6 mm) spacers along your starting wall. 4.2. Place spacers along the wall every 8”-12”. 4.3. This will give the proper expansion gap along the walls.

5. Remove existing wall base or trim.

Door trims must be undercut to allow the floor to move freely, door trim pieces should sit atleast a 1/16” higher than the flooring materials to avoid pinching. 5.1. A scrap piece a flooring may be used to support the blade during cutting.

6. Plan for Transition Moldings.

Flooring runs must not exceed 50 linear feet in a single direction. Determine the best placement of transition moldings corresponding with the length and floor plan of rooms where flooring will be installed. Transition moldings must also be used in doorways to separate flooring that extends into adjoining rooms.

7. Install

CUTTING

• To cut a plank, simply measure and mark the plank with a pencil. Then, use a straight edge and utility knife to score and snap.
• To cut a plank lengthwise (Ripping), simply measure and mark the plank lengthwise with a pencil. Then, use a straight edge and utility knife to score and snap.

Visual descriptions: Cutting diagrams: First score the plank across the marked line with a utility knife and straight edge. Then bend the plank at that line to snap it.

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FIRST ROW

1. Cut the starting and ending plank so they are no shorter than 8”. 1.1. To cut a plank, simply measure and mark the plank with a pencil. Then, use a straight edge and utility knife to score and snap. 2. Do the same for the short side of the planks on the opposite walls . 3. Cut the starting and ending plank lengthwise (Ripping) so the width is no smaller than 3”. 4. Take your second plank and place the short tongue side on top of the first planks short groove side. 5. Gently drop the tongue side into the short groove side listening for a “click” or feeling of the tongue inserting the groove. 6. Finish the connection by tapping the tongue side plank with a rubber mallet to fully engage the tongue into the groove securing the lock. 7. Make sure the tongue and groove are secured properly before proceeding. 7.1. Repeat step 4. If the planks are not secured properly. Failure to connect correctly will result in separation and damaging of the clips. 8. Be mindful of pattern repeat and design. 9. Work from multiple boxes selecting different patterns creating a more random effect, if you install the same repeat together the finished floor will look artificial.

SUBSEQUENT ROWS

1. If the cut plank from the previous row is longer than 8” use it as a starting piece for the next installment. 2. Working from left to right, engage the long tongue side of the new plank into the long groove side of the previous row by angling the new piece in a 45 degree angle. 3. Once the tongue side is inserted into the groove side lay the piece flat. 3.1. Make sure the long sides are connected tight with no visible gaps. 3.2. Take a tapping block and gently tap the longside to make sure it is properly secured. 4. Take your second plank and angle the long tongue side into the long groove side of the previous row by angling the new piece in a 45 degree angle. 5. While inserted into the previous row at a 45 degree angle, slide the plank to the left so the short tongue side is hovering over the previously laid plank’s short groove side. 6. Gently drop the tongue side into the short groove side listening for a “click” or feeling of the tongue inserting the groove. 7. Finish the connection by tapping the tongue side plank with a rubber mallet to fully engage the tongue into the groove securing the lock. 8. Make sure the tongue and groove are secured properly before proceeding 8.1. Repeat step 4. If the planks are not secured properly. Failure to connect correctly will result in separation and damaging of the clips. 8.2. Make sure the long sides are connected tight with no visible gaps. 8.3. Take a tapping block and gently tap the longside to make sure it is properly secured.

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NOTE:

You can use a scrap piece of flooring as a tapping block by taking inserting the tongue into the groove of the flooring and gently tapping the scrap piece to secure the clips.

9. Be mindful of pattern repeat and design. 10. Work from multiple boxes selecting different patterns creating a more random effect, if you install the same repeat together the finished floor will look artificial. DO NOT angle or in any way bend the short end of the planks as this will damage the clip system potentially leading to a locking mechanism failure and joint separation later on.

DISENGAGING THE FLOOR

1. Unclip the whole row by lifting it at a 45 degree angle and separating the pieces. 2. Disassemble the planks by gently sliding the short sides apart 2.1. If the planks are not sliding apart, take a rubber mallet and ently tap the tongue side to ensure the clips are properly secured. 2.2. The boards should gently slide apart. DO NOT: angle or in any way bend the short end of the planks as this will damage the clip system potentially leading to a locking mechanism failure and joint separation later on.

FINISHING THE JOB

Remove spacers. Cover expansion spaces with quarter round or other trim, being sure not to trap or pin down the floor. Nails should go into the wall, not the floor covering or subfloor. Strays nails can prevent the floor from floating properly leading to damage.

TOILETS

1. When installing in restrooms, toilets will need to be removed. 2. Once the toilet has been removed, use the same method of cutting around irregular objects to cut around the toilet flange and bolts.Ensure to leave a 1⁄4” expansion gap including around toilet bolts. 3. Re-install toilet. 4. Seal around the toilet using a premium waterproof 100% silicone sealant.

INSTALLING ON STAIRS

To install a Floating Floor on stair treads and risers: 1. Determine if the Floating Floor planks will be installed on the treads alone, or both the tread and riser. 2. Apply an appropriate amount of adhesive to the substrate.

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3. Press the planks into the adhesive starting with the treads first, followed by the riser. 4. Use a hand roller to apply pressure to planks to ensure they are firmly embedded into the adhesive. 5. Use a stair nose molding at the leading edge of the stair treads. 6. Use colored silicone caulk to fill in the seam where the treads and risers meet if desired.

NOTE:

Landings are not to be glued down, fastened or otherwise pinned. Follow standard installation instructions when installing landings.

DOOR JAMBS

Floating Floors requires a transition molding at every threshold. Wood door jambs should be undercut and the flooring should have a 1⁄4” expansion gap under the door jambs and transition moldings to float freely. Metal door jams can be undercut this same way, but in general flooring is cut to fit within a 1⁄4” around the jamb. Do not fasten, pin or glue the flooring down in any way. Doorways are a common cause of floating floor failure, therefore special attention should be given to the installation in these areas.

IMPORTANT

When installing in wet areas, caulk around the perimeter using a permanently flexible silicone sealant. Avoid acrylic caulking. Do not fill in the expansion gap with sealant. DO NOT use acrylic caulk around the perimeter. Doing so can adhere the flooring in place causing a failure as the acrylic hardens over time. Ensure to only use adhesives that are designed and warranted by the manufacturer as safe for flooring and for use with non-porous materials such as plastics, vinyl, EVA, etc. Use caution when using adhesives around the floating floor system. For example, if the installer is using adhesive to secure moldinging to the substrate, the adhesive must not get onto the floor. The intention of the molding is to allow the flooring to float beneath it.

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FLOOR CARE

Heavy furniture (500+ lbs.) may obstruct the free, natural movement of a floating floor. Restricting this movement in certain areas can lead to problems such as buckling or separation when the floor experiences natural expansion and/or contraction. Special attention should be given to unique cuts such as around islands, 45° angles, cuts around in-floor ducting/registers or other irregular cuts. Problems caused by unique/irregular cuts are not warranted.

AFTER INSTALL/FLOOR CARE MAINTENANCE

Please see the maintenance guide for cleaning instructions at: www.desertlandflooring.com

DO NOT drag furniture across the floor, use appropriate protection before moving furniture as outlined by the care & maintenance guide as well as the warranty. See the care and maintenance guide for proper care instructions.

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DESERT LAND

FLOORING

RIGID CORE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Our vinyl floorings are constructed with the patented Uniclic® tongue and groove design that locks the planks together to form a tight and durable joint that limits moisture from passing through the seams, can be installed over most floor surfaces, and suitable for both residential and light commercial interior applications. To assure satisfactory installation, please read all instructions before installing.

REQUIREMENTS & SITE CONDITIONS

• Make sure the sub-floor is flat, clean and dry. Any uneven areas greater than (3/16 inch in 10 feet) must be leveled with leveling compound.
• The installation area is guaranteed with a maximum length and width of 10m (32.8 feet). T-molding is required for larger area.
• Interior use only in a climate-controlled environment, not to be exposed to direct sunlight.
• Keep records of levelness and moisture testing.
• DO NOT use separate Pad for pre-attached vinyl planks.
• DO NOT install planks over floors that are sloped for drainage.
• Residential and light commercial applications.
• NOT for use on ramps.
• Installation direction: It is recommended to install the length of the boards parallel to the main light direction.

PRIOR TO INSTALLATION

• Acclimate vinyl planks at least 48 hours to room temperature (60° - 85°F) and relative humidity between 30% - 55%.
• Use humidifier to maintain relative humidity if needed. Avoid installation under very dry/ humid conditions, it is best to install when conditions are about the same as it will be most of the year.
• DO NOT stack higher than ten cartons and DO NOT stack anything on top of uninstalled vinyl planks. DO NOT store the cartons directly on concrete, allow for air circulation.
• Always carefully check flooring materials for any defects. Contact your supplier immediately if any defect is found.
• Open several cartons and mix planks together to ensure a natural pattern upon installation.
• Install all cabinets prior to installing flooring materials (DO NOT install on top of the floor).
• Remove all furniture from the room, as well as existing quarter round, baseboard molding or cove base.
• Inspect subfloor structure to be dry, clean, solid and flat. Any adhesive residue must be removed to ensure proper installation.
• Undercut doorway moldings to be the thickness of the flooring. Check that the doors can still open and close after the floor and underlayment are installed (minimum +1cm (3/8’’)).

Visual descriptions: Diagram description: Long planks run toward the window, parallel to the main direction of incoming light.

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• DO NOT install vinyl planks over soft subfloors (carpet) or areas prone to flooding.

PRO TIP: Purchase an additional 5% of flooring to allow for cuts and an additional 10% to 15% if installing

diagonally. Excess flooring should be stored flat in a climate-controlled area for repairs in the event of future

damage.

TOOLS

Carpenter square, utility knife, tape measure, pencil, long straight edge, chalk line, safety glasses, tapping block, pull bar

SUBFLOOR

Concrete Subfloors:

Make sure moisture vapor emissions does not exceed 5 lbs./24 hour per 1,000 sq. when tested with the Anhydrous Calcium Chloride Test in accordance with ASTM F 1869 or 85% RH in accordance with ASTM F 2170 “Standard Test Method for Determining Relative Humidity in Concrete Slabs using in situ Probes. Level uneven areas greater than 3/16” in a 10 feet. Holes and cracks in the cement must be patched, and expansion joints must be filled with a latex patching compound. Newly poured concrete floors must cure for a minimum of 90 days. Apply a 6 mils polyethylene moisture barrier before installation. Please note it is the person installing the floor and/or the homeowner’s responsibility to ensure a smooth substrate and that any moisture or alkalinity issues are resolved prior to installing the floor. Once installed, it becomes the installer’s responsibility.

Wood Subfloors: must be solid and flat. Sand down high spots and fill low spots with leveling compound. Firmly fasten all loose boards and fill all gaps before installation.

DO NOT install vinyl planks over wood floors/ laminate laid directly on concrete or bitumen.

Mosaics/ Terrazzo/ Ceramics: must be solid and flat. Level grout lines with the width or depth of 3/16” (5mm).

Textile floor covering (carpet): must be removed.

Radiant Heat Subfloors:

Rigid Core Planks can be installed over in-floor radiant heating systems provided the subfloor surface does not exceed 85°F (29.44°C) at any point. The initial floor temperature should not exceed 70°F (21.11°C) for 48 hours prior, during, and after installation. Thereafter the temperature should be gradually increased to the desired setting up to 85°F (29.44°C). Because heat does affect plastic more than wood, you may need additional room for expansion (larger expansion gap) and contraction (wider base to allow for contraction) Radiant heating systems that are installed directly on top of the subfloor surface are not recommended.

INSTALLING THE FLOOR

Begin installation parallel to the long dimension of the room, preferably parallel with the light sources (windows & doors).

Snap a chalk line at the starting point to maintain alignment. Use planks mixed in from four or five cartons to achieve the

ideal random pattern.

Start at the left corner. Place the 1st plank with the tongue facing wall. Use spacers to set a 12mm (15/32") gap between wall and flooring.

Install the 2nd plank by clicking the tongue into the groove; hold the plank from 30° angle and lower. Make sure both planks are perfectly aligned.

Visual descriptions: Diagram descriptions: The first plank is positioned with spacers against the wall. The next plank is held at the angle specified in the instructions and lowered into the joint.

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At the end of the 1st row, measure the last plank to leave 15/32" space to the wall.

Begin the 2nd row with the leftover piece from the 1st row. The cut piece must be at least 30cm (12") long.

Click the short side and place it tight to the short end of the left plank. Angle the long side (about 30°) and tap it firmly into the 1st row.

Measure the last row of floorboards (at least 2" wide) Reduce the width of the 1st row if needed.

Use an adapted tapping block and mallet (NOT USE HAMMER) to tap the plank under door frames. Ensure at least 11mm (7/16") space under the door.

Remove spacers and sweep the floor with soft brush. Cover the expansion gaps by driving baseboards into the wall (NOT into the floor).

Pipe: When fitting around door trim it will be necessary to slide the plank under the trim. This can be accomplished easily by starting the row on the side of the room with the door trim and then sliding the plank into place once it is attached. The row can be completed by inserting the tongue onto the groove or the groove under the tongue depending on the direction. A tapping block and pull bar can also be used to lock the joints together while the planks are in a flat position. Use a series of light taps until the joint is gradually locked together.

Under doorframes: When sawing the panels, ensure the expansion joint under the door at least 10mm (3/8’’). If you cannot lift the panel, use an adapted tapping block or pull bar and hammer to tap the panels together with the planks flat on the floor.

AFTER CARE

• Maintain room temperature between 60° - 85° F; relative humidity between 40% and 70%
• Avoid bringing dirt, water and sand indoors by providing a suitable floor mat at all outside doors. Sweep and/or dust mop the floor daily to remove surface dirt. Remember to clean walk-off mats regularly.
• Strong alkaline detergents or cleaning agents containing solvents should not be used. Remember always to rinse with clean water. Use a white pad on auto scrubber or 175 rpm machine.
• We recommend a diluted solution of Simple Green or another gentle cleaner for regular cleaning and removing grease and smudges from your floor.
• Do not use harsh abrasive cleaners, bleach, ammonia or vinegar-based cleaners, wax or acrylic polishes, or oil soaps. These may dull or damage the finish, leaving a greasy film and making the floor slippery and more difficult to clean.
• Protect your floor against direct sunlight or any intense source of artificial lighting. Over time, intense natural and artificial light may discolor the floors
• Do not roll, or drag heavy objects across your floor. Do not wear shoes having heel taps, spikes, cleats, rocks, gravel or sharp objects protruding from the sole.
• Protect furniture and chair legs with proper felt or rubber caps.
• Use (office) chairs and seats with soft rubber wheels that are suitable for a vinyl floor and/or use a suitable desk mat.

Visual descriptions: Diagram descriptions: Continue the row with a perimeter spacer gap. Reuse a sufficiently long offcut to begin the next row. Angle the long edge into place, then connect the short end. Cut the final row to fit. Use the specified tapping block under the door frame. Attach baseboards to the wall rather than fastening the floating floor.

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INSTALLATION GUIDELINES FOR VINYL GLUE-DOWN FLOORING

1. TEST BEFORE STARTING INSTALLATION

Note: All substrates to receive moisture sensitive floor covering must be tested for moisture.

CONCRETE SUBSTRATES

All concrete substrates should be tested for IRH (Internal Relative Humidity) according to ASTM F 2170.

Calcium Chloride tests may be conducted in addition to IRH and must be performed per the latest edition of ASTM F 1869.

NEW AND EXISTING CONCRETE SUBFLOORS SHOULD MEET THE GUIDELINES OF THE LATEST EDITION OF ACI 302 AND ASTM F

710, “STANDARD PRACTICE FOR PREPARING CONCRETE FLOORS TO RECEIVE RESILIENT FLOORING” AVAILABLE FROM THE AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR

TESTING AND MATERIALS, 100 BARR HARBOR DRIVE, WEST CONSHOHOCKEN, PA 19428; 610-8329585; HTTP://WWW.ASTM.ORG.

• Substrates shall be smooth, structurally sound, permanently dry, clean and free of all foreign material such as dust, wax, solvents, paint, grease, oils, old adhesive residue, curing and hardening/ curing compounds, sealers and other foreign material that might prevent adhesive bond.
• If the adhesive residue is asphalt‐based (cut‐back), or any other type of adhesive is present, it must be removed by industry accepted methods such as mechanical removal or wet scraping.
• If a chemical abatement has been performed, use Desertland Flooring Surface Prep EXT to remove any residual chemicals present. Once Desertland Flooring Surface Prep EXT has been properly cleaned and removed, apply one coat of Desertland Flooring MRP for additional protection.

Adhesive removal through the use of solvents or citrus adhesive removers is not recommended. Solvent residue left in or on the subfloor may affect the new adhesive and floor covering.

WARNING! DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW, BEAD BLAST ORMECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERISE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING,

BACKING, LINING FELT, ASPHALTIC “CUT BACK” ADHESIVES OR OTHER ADHESIVES.

These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica. Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm. Unless positively certain that the product is a non‐asbestos‐containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern the removal and disposal of material. See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for detailed information and instructions on removing all resilient covering structures. For current information go to www.desertlandflooring.com

• Concrete floors shall be flat and smooth within 1/8" in 6 feet or 3/16” in 10 feet.
• F‐Number System: Overall values of FF 36/ FL 20 may be appropriate for resilient floor coverings.
• Moisture Vapor Emission Rate (MVER) – Conduct either in‐situ RH test (ASTM F‐2170) or CaCl MVER test method (ASTM F1869) Refer to the adhesive information for the acceptable moisture limits.
• Use cementitious patching and leveling compounds that meet or exceed Desertland Flooring’s maximum moisture level and pH requirements. Use of gypsum‐based patching and/or leveling compounds which contain Portland or high alumina cement and meet or exceed the compressive strength of 3,000 psi are acceptable.
• Perform Bond testing to determine compatibility of adhesive to the substrate. Desertland Flooring 9050 primer can be utilized to promote adhesion.
• Porosity – water drop test will help determine porosity – if drop remains on the surface after 1‐2 mins concrete should be considered non‐porous.
• Working and open times of adhesives may vary based on job conditions, substrate, temperature, and humidity.
• Areas to receive flooring should be adequately lighted during all phases of the installation process.
• It is recommended that resilient floor covering installation shall not begin until all other trades have completed.

TEMPERATURE - AMBIENT

Controlled environments are critical. Fully functional HVAC systems are the best way to ensure temperature and humidity control.

• DO NOT install resilient flooring products until the work area can be temperature controlled.
• The permanent HVAC system turned on and set to a minimum of 65°F (18.3°C) or a maximum of 85°F, for a minimum of 7 days prior to, during, and after installation. Once the installation is complete the temperature should not exceed 85°F (29.4°C).

desertlandflooring.com

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PH

Concrete floors must be tested per the latest edition of ASTM F 710.

• PH reading must not exceed 10.0.
• Readings below 7.0 and in excess of 10.0 affect resilient flooring and adhesives negatively.
• Rinsing the surface with clear water may lower alkalinity. “DAMP MOP”

NOTE: IT MAY NOT BE THE FLOOR COVERING INSTALLER’S RESPONSIBILITY TO CONDUCT THESE TESTS. IT IS, HOWEVER, THE

FLOOR COVERING INSTALLER’S RESPONSIBILITY TO MAKE SURE THESE TESTS HAVE BEEN CONDUCTED, AND THAT THE RESULTS ARE ACCEPTABLE PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE FLOOR COVERING. WHEN MOISTURE TESTS ARE CONDUCTED, IT INDICATES THE CONDITIONS ONLY AT THE TIME OF THE TEST.

2. MATERIAL STORAGE AND HANDLING

• Flooring material and adhesive must be acclimated to the installation area for a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation.
• Store cartons of tile or plank products flat and squarely on top of one another. Tile or plank products should be stacked no more than 6 high and allow for air flow around stacks when un‐palletized. Preferably, locate material in the “center” of the installation area (i.e. away from vents, direct sunlight, etc.) Storing cartons in direct sunlight may affect proper acclimation by inducing thermal expansion/contraction.
• When palletizing on a jobsite vinyl plank or tiles needs to be stacked 2 rows high side by side with no airspace between. Then quarter turned for 2 rows side by side, not to exceed 12 boxes high. A 5/8” or thicker plywood must also be placed on the pallet first.
• Do not stack pallet’s 2 high unless utilizing a 1” thick plywood in between pallets.

3. SUBSTRATES

Note: All substrates to receive resilient flooring shall be dry, clean, smooth and structurally sound. They shall be free of dust, solvent, paint, wax, oil, grease, residual adhesive, adhesive removers, curing, sealing, hardening/parting compounds, alkaline salts, excessive carbonation/laitance, mold, mildew, and other foreign materials that might prevent the adhesive from bonding. Crumb rubber underlayment’s are not an acceptable option for use

with resilient floor coverings due to performance issues resulting from chemical incompatibilities.

WOOD SUBSTRATES

Wood subfloors must be structurally sound and in compliance with local building codes.

• Double‐Layered APA rated plywood subfloors should be a minimum 1" total thickness, with at least 18" well‐ventilated air space beneath.
• Chip board, OSB, particleboard, construction grade plywood are generally not acceptable substrates – add a layer of APA underlayment grade ply wood that is dimensionally stable, non‐staining, with a smooth fully sanded face.
• Underlayment panels can only correct minor deficiencies in the sub‐floor while providing a smooth, sound surface on which to adhere the resilient flooring. Wood subfloors should be flat – 3/16” in 10’ or 1/8” in 6’.
• Insulate and protect crawl spaces with a vapor barrier covering the ground.
• DO NOT install over sleeper construction subfloors or wood subfloors applied directly over concrete.
• Underlayment panels can only correct minor deficiencies in the sub‐floor while providing a smooth, sound surface on which to adhere the resilient flooring.
• Any failures in the performance of the underlayment panel rest with the panel manufacturer and not with Desertland Flooring Industries, Inc.
• It is recommended that your chosen APA underlayment grade panels be designed for installation under resilient flooring, and carry a written warranty covering replacement of the entire flooring system.
• DESERTLAND FLOORING resilient flooring is not recommended directly over fire‐retardant treated plywood or preservative treated plywood.
• The materials used to treat the plywood may cause problems with adhesive bonding. An additional layer of APA rated 1/4" thick underlayment should be installed.
• Always follow the underlayment manufacturer’s installation instructions.

STRIP – PLANK WOOD FLOORING

Due to expansion/contraction of individual boards during seasonal changes, DESERTLAND FLOORING recommends 1/4" or thicker APA rated underlayment panels be installed over these types of subfloors.

CONCRETE

New or existing concrete subfloors must meet the guidelines of the latest edition of ACI 302 and ASTM F 710, “Standard Practice for Preparing Concrete Floors to Receive Resilient Flooring”.

1. On or below‐grade slabs must have an effective vapor retarder directly under the slab. 2. Wet curing 7 days is the preferred method for curing new concrete. 3. Curing compounds (DO NOT USE). If present they can interfere with the bond of the adhesive to the concrete. Seek assistance from a substrate manufacturer if curing agents are detected. 4. Remove curing compounds 28 days after placement, so concrete can begin drying. 5. Concrete floors shall be flat and smooth within 1/8" in 6 feet or 3/16” in 10 feet. 6. F‐Number System: Overall values of FF 36/ FL 20 may be appropriate for resilient floor coverings.

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Note: Conduct bond testing to confirm adhesive compatibility with the substrate. A suitable primer may be applied to enhance adhesion. Do not install over expansion joints; use proper joint covers. Control joints may be patched once the concrete is fully cured, dry, and properly acclimated.

LIGHTWEIGHT CONCRETE

All recommendations and guarantees as to the suitability and performance of lightweight concrete under resilient flooring are the responsibility of the lightweight concrete manufacturer. The installer of the lightweight product may be required to be authorized or certified by the manufacturer. Correct on‐ site mixing ratios and properly functioning pumping equipment are critical. To ensure proper mixture, slump testing is recommended.

• Lightweight aggregate concretes having densities greater than 90 lbs. per cubic foot may be acceptable under resilient flooring.
• Concrete slabs with heavy static and/or dynamic loads should be designed with higher strengths and densities to support such loads.
• Surface must be permanently dry, clean, and smooth, free of all dust, and structurally sound.
• Perform Bond testing to determine compatibility of adhesive to the substrate. Desertland Flooring 9050 primer can be utilized to promote adhesion.

Radiant Heating: Radiant‐heated subfloor systems can be concrete, wood or a combination of both.

The heating systems components must have a minimum of 1/2" separation from the flooring product. The system must be on and operational for at least 2 weeks prior to installation to reduce residual moisture. Three days prior to installation lower the temperature to 65 degrees (18.3°C), after installation gradually increase the temperature in increments of 5° F to avoid overheating. Maximum operating temperature should never exceed 85°F (29.4). Use of an in‐floor temperature sensor is recommended to avoid overheating. Contact the manufacturer of your radiant heating system for further recommendations.

• Electric Radiant Floors: consist of electric cables (or) mats of electrically conductive materials mounted on the subfloor below the floor covering. Mesh systems are typically embedded in thin set. When embedding the system components, use cementitious patching and leveling compounds that meet or exceed Desertland Flooring’s maximum moisture level and pH requirements. Use of gypsum‐based patching and/or leveling compounds which contain Portland or high alumina cement and meet or exceed the compressive strength of 3,000 psi are acceptable.
• Hydronic Radiant Floors: pump heated water from a boiler through tubing laid in a pattern under the flooring. Typically installed in channels under a wooden subfloor (or) imbedded in concrete slabs. Requires the installer follow a specific nailing pattern to avoid penetration of the heat system.

RESILIENT FLOOR COVERING

1. Must be single layered sheet vinyl, non‐cushion backed, fully adhered, and smooth. 2. Show no signs of moisture or alkalinity. 3. Waxes, polishes, grease, grime, and oil must be removed. 4. Cuts, cracks, gouges, dents and other irregularities in the existing floor covering must be repaired or replaced. 5. Embossing leveler recommended to aid in proper bonding and to prevent telegraphing. 6. Do not install over rubber‐based substrates.

NOTE: THE RESPONSIBILITY OF DETERMINING IF THE EXISTING FLOORING IS SUITABLE TO BE INSTALLED OVER TOP OF WITH RESILIENT, RESTS SOLELY WITH INSTALLER/FLOORING CONTRACTOR ON SITE. IF THERE IS ANY DOUBT AS TO SUITABILITY, THE EXISTING FLOORING SHOULD BE REMOVED, OR AN ACCEPTABLE UNDERLAYMENT INSTALLED OVER IT. INSTALLATIONS OVER EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING MAY BE MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO INDENTATION.

Quarry Tile, Terrazzo, Ceramic Tile, Poured Floors (Epoxy, Polymeric, Seamless)

• Must be totally cured and well bonded to the concrete.
• Must be free of any residual solvents and petroleum derivatives.
• Waxes, polishes, grease, grime, and oil must be removed.
• Show no signs of moisture or alkalinity.
• Cuts, cracks, gouges, dents, and other irregularities in the existing floor covering must be repaired or replaced.
• Fill any low spots, holes, chips and seams that may telegraph through the new flooring.
• Grind any highly polished or irregular/smooth surfaces. Quarry tile or Ceramic tile grout joints and textured surfaces must be filled with an embossing leveler or substrate manufacturer approved material.

4. DESERTLAND FLOORING ADHESIVES & PRIMER

Refer to adhesive label for proper trowel requirements, spread rates and application.

Prior to application of adhesive determine if the substrate is a porous or non‐porous substrate. Follow instructions on the adhesive label for porous or non‐porous subfloor.

IMPORTANT: It is recommended to perform a bond test to determine adhesive working time under site conditions. The bond test results will indicate

whether a primer is required.

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5.INSTALLING Vinyl Glue-Down Flooring

General

• Ensure that moisture tests have been conducted and that the results do not exceed the acceptable moisture limit for the adhesive used.
• PH of concrete sub‐floor needs to be between 5&10.
• The permanent HVAC system is turned on and set to a minimum of 65°F (18.3°C)) or a maximum of 85°F (29.4°C), for a minimum of 72 hours prior to, during and after installation. After installations, the maximum temperature should not exceed 85°F.
• Do not stack more than 5 cartons high.
• Flooring material and adhesive must be acclimated to the installation area for a minimum of 48 hours prior to installation. f. Use appropriate trowel size regarding substrate porosity
• Material should always be visually inspected prior to installation. Any material installed with visual defects will not be considered a legitimate claim as it pertains to labor cost.
• Install tiles running in same direction.
• Ensure that all recommendations for sub‐floor and jobsite conditions are met prior to beginning the installation. Directional designs are optional, however, once the
• installation is started; you have accepted those conditions.

LAYOUT AND INSTALLATION GENERAL RULES

• Desertland Flooring tile and plank ‐ Install using conventional tile and plank installation techniques. Plank products should have a minimum of 6 – 8" seam stagger.
• Carefully determine where to begin tile or plank installation.
• It is customary to center rooms and hallways so borders are not less than half a tile or plank.
• Working out of multiple boxes at a time is recommended.
• In hallways and small spaces, it may be simpler to work lengthwise from one end using a center reference line as a guide. f. Make sure cut edges are always against the wall.
• To properly cut LVT/LVP products score the top side of the material with a utility knife. Bend the product and finish the cut through the backside. This will ensure the cleanest cut. It may be necessary to use a heat gun to cut around vertical obstructions. Allow the heated LVT/LVP to return to room temperature before installation.
• Cutting the product into a fine point may lead to delamination. Use an ethyl cyanoacrylate based super glue to help fuse the LVT/LVP point together. Be sure to clean all glue from the top surface immediately. Alcohol based super glues may cause vinyl to swell.
• For random width plank begin installation with the widest plank first.

NOTE: Recommended to use floor protection after installation. DO NOT use a plastic adhesive‐based protection system.

INSTALLATION FOR TILE

Layout of the Room for Squarely Laid Fields

To square the area to be covered, first find the center of one end of the main rectangle. Locate the same point at the other end wall. Snap a chalk line between these points to mark the center line on the floor. Then measure along this center line to find the middle of the room. At the center point, mark off a line across the room at exactly right angles to the first line. This may be accomplished by the 3‐4‐5‐ triangle method as shown in Figure 1. Then measure 4 feet toward each side wall from the center point. Then measure 3 feet from the center point along the longer line, measure exactly 5 feet from the 3 foot mark on the center line to the 4 foot mark on the cross line. If the 5 foot measurements

Figure 1

do not come out exactly 5 feet, the center crossing lines are not at a true right angle. For large rooms, multiples of the above dimensions may be used to obtain greater accuracy. (6‐8‐10 or 9‐12‐15, etc.)

Dry‐lay a row of tiles from the center line to the side wall to determine the space left for the borders. If the resulting border is too small, move the starting point over a half tile width so that it straddles the center line. Repeat the same procedure lengthwise of the room. (This can readily be figured out from the room dimensions without putting down the tiles if desired.) If it is decided to have the center row of tiles straddle either or both of the center lines, additional guidelines should be snapped on the floor ½ tiles width on one side of either or both center lines as required. (See Figure 2) After the border widths have been determined and the center starting lines have been snapped spread the recommended adhesive on the center lines leaving portions of the lines at center and near each wall uncovered as

Figure 2

shown in Figure 3.

Spread the adhesive over one‐half the area and after it is ready, start laying tile from the right angle formed in the center of the room by center lines. Lay toward the two corners of the room as shown. Always refer to your guide lines as you progress with laying tile so that any mistake can be corrected before it is too late. Sometimes it’s necessary to compromise on the rightness of joints to make allowances for unevenness or waves of the subfloor. Take care to place tile as accurately as possible without sliding them into place. If grouting tile please leave appropriate spacer between tiles and follow instruction for use of Array‐Grout.

Figure 3 IMPORTANT: All flooring must by rolled with a minimum 100-lb roller after installation. Use a

Figur e 3

hand roller in areas not reached with a 100-lb. roller.

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Visual descriptions: Diagram descriptions: Figure 1 shows perpendicular chalk lines crossing at the center of the room, checked with a 3–4–5 right triangle. Figure 2 shows trial rows from the center toward the walls to check border widths. Figure 3 shows the installation working outward from the center with straight, aligned joints.

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VERSAILLES PATTERN TILES

The Versailles Pattern (French pattern). Proper installation and layout are important. The material must have a grout line of 3mm for proper placement. Use of 3 mm spacers is required to achieve proper grout line size and to ensure the tiles are spaced evenly.

• The pattern is composed of
• 44% 16" x 16" tiles
• 33% 16" x 24" tiles
• 11% 8" x 16" tiles
• 11% 8" x 8" tiles
• Instructions – Use a 3mm spacer to separate the tiles as the pattern is constructed.
• Place one 8‐inch by 8‐inch tile in the center.
• Position two 16‐inch by 16‐inch tiles with one above where the right edge of the larger tile is flush with the right edge of the smaller tile, and one to the left so that the top edge of the second larger tile is flush with the top edge of the smaller tile.
• Place one 8‐inch by 16‐inch tile on the bottom of the section so that the 8‐inch edge presses against the 16‐inch square tile and half of the 16‐inch edge are pressed against the base edge of the square tile.
• Place a 16‐inch by 24‐inch tile in the corner created by the rectangular tile from Step 3 and the square tile from Step 1 so that the 16‐inch edge runs horizontally, extending out to the right of the structure.
• Position a 16‐inch by 16‐inch tile immediately below the 16‐inch by 24‐inch tile so that the left edge of the square tile is pressed against the short edge of the rectangular tile.
• Lay a 16‐inch by 24‐inch tile with the 24‐inch side running horizontally immediately to the left of the tile from and pressed against the base of the rectangular tile and half of the base of the first 16‐inch square tile.
• Place an 8‐inch square tile against the last half of the base of the first 16‐inch tile and against the left edge of the 16‐inch by 24‐inch tile.
• Place an 8‐inch square tile immediately above the first 16‐inch square tile with a 16‐inch square tile right above the 8‐inch tile.
• Position an 8‐inch by 16‐inch tile with the 16‐inch edge pressed against the 8‐inch square tile and the original 16‐inch square tile.
• Position the last tile, an 8‐inch square tile, so that the right edge is flush with the right edge of the top‐right 16‐inch by 24‐inch tile. The 8‐ inch tile must be on top of the large rectangle with the right edges flush to complete the overall design.

6. ARRAY GROUT

Array‐Grout, with a unique formula, offers stain resistance color consistency and a smooth texture for easy spreading and clean‐up.

• For Grouting Desertland Flooring groutable tiles. Can also be used on vitreous, semi‐vitreous or absorptive tile including ceramic, mosaic, quarry, cement, porcelain, brick, mini brick, precast terrazzo and natural stone.
• Stain resistant, premixed, no shade variance, resists mold and mildew.
• Use on floors, countertops, walls, and ceilings.
• For interior installations only.

COVERAGE

1. 1/16“ Grout joint approximately 500 sqft/gallon. 2. 1/8“ Grout joint approximately 300 sqft/gallon. 3. 1/4“ Grout joint approximately 140 sqft/gallon.

LIMITATIONS

• Desertland Flooring Array‐Grout should not be installed, when ambient temperature is below 60° F and above 90° F. Desertland Flooring Array‐Grout should be kept at room temperature for 24 hours before installation.
• Some types of glazed ceramic tile, marble and stone can be scratched, stained or damaged when grouted with pigmented or sanded grouts. Generally white grout is best suited for grouting white or light‐colored marble or granite. Follow tile manufacturer’s recommendations. Test a small area prior to use. Certain tile with high absorption, surface porosity or rough textured surfaces and certain types of porcelain may require sealing prior to grouting to prevent staining.

SURFACE PREPARATION

1. Tile must be firmly attached to a sound substrate and setting material must be cured for a minimum of 24‐48 hours before grouting. 2. Remove all spacers. Grout joints should be uniform in depth and width and free of all loose debris, contaminants and excess mortar or adhesive.

APPLICATION

New installation

1. Before grouting, soak the grout sponge in a pail of clean cool water and thoroughly wring out. 2. Use the dampened sponge and lightly wipe the tile surface in an area no larger than 5‐10 sq. ft. A slightly wet tile surface allows the grout to glide easily over the tile and into the grout joint while providing for easier cleanup. 3. While tile is still damp, dispense a liberal amount of grout onto the tile surface. 4. Using the grout float, press the grout into the grout joints over the dampened area apply grout on no more than 5‐10 sq. ft. at a time to allow for prompt cleaning; delayed cleaning may cause some cracking. 5. Place the grout float on edge at a 45° angle and rake the float diagonally across the tile surface while exerting a downward pressure. This will force the grout evenly into the grout joints. 6. Immediately remove all excess grout from the tile surface by holding the grout flat at a 90° angle to the tile and drawing it diagonally across the tile.

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Visual descriptions: Diagram description: The Versailles pattern combines differently sized square and rectangular tiles in an interlocking repeating arrangement. The written instructions below identify each size, quantity, spacing, and placement.

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7. Clean by soaking grout sponge in clean cool water. Wring out excess water completely. 8. Use dampened sponge in a circular motion to smooth grout joints and clean off any remaining excess grout. 9. Continue rinsing of sponge in clean, cool water will aid in cleanup. 10. Avoid excess water in grout joints. For final cleaning/haze removal, allow grout to cure for 24 hours. Use a dampened sponge, then soft cloth to polish off residue.

Repair existing grout

• Remove existing old grout with a grout saw 1/8” below the surface of existing tile, Sweep or vacuum dust and debris from surface of tile and grout joints.
• Desertland Flooring Array‐Grout can be applied directly over old grout. Apply enough to totally cover the old grout. Follow directions for new installation as shown above.

CLEANUP

Clean tools and hands with cold water before material dries.

CARE & MAINTENANCE

Mold and Mildew can grow on dirt, food, and soap scum that can accumulate on the grout surface. Routine cleaning will limit mold and mildew growth.

SAFETY

Avoid eye contact or prolonged contact with skin. Wash thoroughly after handling. If eye contact occurs, flush with water for 15 minutes and consult a physician.

INSTALLATION FOR VINYL PLANKS

Layout of the Room

1. Find the center point of the room. Strike a line 2. Obtain a true 90’ angle by using a carpenter’s square. 3. Strike a second line which will divide the room in to four equal parts. 4. Measure the distance from the center to the wall, parallel to the direction of the plank. 5. Divide the measurement by the width of the plank. If less than half remains as the border plank, adjust the point to compensate. This will give a larger border along the wall and reduce the chance of having to cut a small sliver of flooring to place along the wall

Layout of the Plank

• Carefully place the first piece of plank at the junction of the chalk lines.
• Continue to lay the plank, making sure each plank flush against the chalk line and tight against the adjoining plank.
• Make sure the plank is well seated into the adhesive paying special attention, to the edges. Lay row by row, or in a pyramid fashion as shown below.

Fitting the Border

• Measure the distance from the last plank in the row to the wall.
• Mark the plank and cut it against the mark.
• Lay the plank in place, making sure that the cut edge is against the wall.

Fitting Around Irregular Objects

• Make a pattern out of heavy paper to fit around pipes and other irregularities.
• Place the pattern on the plank, trace cutting along the trace lines.

IMPORTANT: All flooring must by rolled with a minimum 100-lb roller after installation. Use a hand roller in areas not reached with a 100-lb. roller.

Note: Do not use tape to secure floor protection during construction or renovation. Use ram board or similar to protect the floor.

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Visual descriptions: Diagram descriptions: The room layout starts with perpendicular reference lines and a 3–4–5 check. Planks follow the chosen laying direction with end joints staggered; the crossed-out drawing warns against an unsuitable joint arrangement. Border planks are measured against the wall and cut to fit. Irregular objects are traced using a paper pattern before cutting the plank.

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READ BEFORE INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION WARNING:

Installation conditions— including temperature, sun exposure, and humidity—can significantly affect the long-term performance of this product. For best results, the room temperature and humidity in the installation area should match normal, year-round living conditions for at least one week before installation. All products must be installed in an environment with a temperature between 60°F and 80°F and relative humidity between 35%and 55%. Failure to maintain these conditions may result in flooring issues such as shrinkage, gapping, cupping, and face-checking. Installation out side of these recommended ranges or over a wet subfloor will likely cause movement in the flooring, including potential shrinkage, tip-raising, gapping between pieces, cupping and face-checking. DESERTLAND strongly recommends glue-down to be the best method to install its engineered hardwood flooring and DESERTLAND engineered hardwood flooring MUST be installed according to the National Wood Flooring Association’s (NWFA) installation guide lines in order for the Limited Warranties to be valid. The most current publication of the NWFA guidelines is available to all NWFA members, and can be found at www.nwfa.org (800-422-4556)

OWNER/INSTALLER RESPONSIBILITY:

As a natural product, hardwood contains inherent variations in color, grain, appearance and other visual imperfections. As a natural product, hardwood contains inherent variations in color, grain, appearance, and other visual characteristics. DESERTLAND Engineered Hardwood Flooring is manufactured in accordance with industry standards, which allow a defecttolerance of up to 5%. These natural variations are not considered defects. Flooring should be carefully inspected prior to installation. Any boards deemed unacceptable should not be installed and may be replaced in accordance with our limited warranty.

Once installed, flooring is considered accepted by both the installer and owner. It is the sole responsibility of the installer to ensure thejob site, subfloor, moisture conditions, and all tools and materials meet or exceed industry standards. DESERTLAND strongly recommends using a NWFA-certified installer or consulting your dealer for approved installation professionals.

DESERTLAND Flooring Highly suggests using a NWFA certified flooring installer or consult the

dealer youmadeyourpurchase from for an Authorized installer. DESERTLAND Flooring voids all responsibility for any problems arising fromincorrect or impropersitepreparations or installations procedures.

JOB SITE CONDITIONS & PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING:

General Information

• The building must be fully enclosed and climate controlled. All exterior doors and windows must be installed, latched, and operational toensurestable environmental conditions. All concrete, masonry, plastering, drywall and paint must be completed.

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• HVAC systems must be fully operational for at least 14 days prior to flooring installation to ensure that temperature and humidity have stabilized to normal, occupied living conditions.
• Maintain a consistent room temperature between 60-80°F and relative humidity between 35- 55% is recommended and this should remain at this level all year round. This is to stabilize the building’s interior environment, but also is essential when a climating hardwood flooring to the jobsite. Wood is a hygroscopic material that expands and contracts depending on the relative humidity level of the environment. Flooring must be stored in a climate-controlled area, which is equal to the environment that will be installed 5-7 days prior to the installation. DO NOT OPEN the cartons until you are ready to install.
• Exterior grading, directing drainage away from the structure, as well as gutters and down-spouts should be completed. Floors may be installed on,above, or below grade level and are not recommended in full bathrooms.
• It is essential that basements and crawl spaces are well ventilated and dry. Crawl spaces must be minimum of 24” from the ground to under side of joints. A vapor barrier must be established in crawl spaces using 6-mil polyethylene film with joists overlapped and taped.
• During the final pre-installation inspection, Subfloor must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate metering device for the woodand concrete.
• Work out of several different cartons at the same time to obtain the best distribution of color, grain and shade mixture.
• Undercut door casings to avoid difficult scribe cuts, and remove all existing wall base, shoe molding, quarter round or doorway threshold. These items can be replaced after installation but should be replaced in such a way to allow at least ½” room for expansion. Please see NWFA Installation Guideline for details.
• Hardwood flooring will expand and contract with changes in ambient temperature and humidity. Allow floor to expand and contract, during installation leave an ½” expansion space around.

HELPFUL TOOLS

• Pencil
• Chalk line
• 6, levelor 10, level
• Miter saw
• Table saw
• 60 tooth carbide tip saw blades
• Broom
• Jamb saw
• Eye protection
• Dust Mask
• Gloves • Engineered Floor Stapler
• Floor fasteners
• Hygrometer (test home temperature and humidity)
• Blue painters tape (2080)

• PVAwood glue
• Air Compressor with regulator
• Air hose
• Drill bit set
• Hammer
• Tape measure
• Moisture meter (wood)
• Calcium chloride moisture test (concrete)
• Approved adhesive remover (glue down installs)
• Cloth rags
• Nail set
• Drill
• 6d finish nails
• Jig saw
• Ear protection

Subfloor Preparation

The installer and owner are jointly and solely responsible for ensuring that the subfloor is suitable for the flooring application and properly prepared for installation.

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Subfloor Preparation

The installer and owner are jointly and solely responsible for ensuring that the subfloor is suitable for the flooring application and properly prepared for installation.

Subfloor Conditions

• Clean, free of wax, paint, oil, plaster and debris. All previous or existing glues or adhesives must be removed completely before the start of installation. #3 1/2 grit open coat paper may need to be used to grind a concrete sub-floor. This will loosen any dirt, concrete or contaminates. Sweep or vacuum thoroughly.
• Flatto 3/16” per 8’ radius or 1/8” per 6’ radius. If a sub-floor prep work is required,“hills” should be sanded down and the “valleys” filledwithanunderlayment patch. Subfloor irregularities and undulations may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots betweentheflooringandsub-floor. These hollow spots are NOT the result of any wood flooring manufacturing defect and are NOT covered under warranty.
• Structurally sound and properly secured with nails or screws every 6” along joists to reduce the possibility of squeaking after installation.Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak or reveal movement and replace any damaged sub-floor or underlayment.
• Dry and should be covered, wall-to-wall, with 15lb asphalt saturated felt. Lap edges of this felt 4” when positioning it. Double the felt around heat ducts in the floor. It is essential that basements and crawl spaces are well ventilated and dry. Crawl spaces must be minimumof 24” from the ground to underside of joists. A vapor barrier must be established in crawl spaces using 6 mil polyethylene film with joists overlapped and taped. All sub-floors must be tested for moisture. See below for an appropriate moisture testing.

Acceptable sub-floors

• 5/8” minimum thickness, preferred 3/4”, or thicker exterior plywood installed with long edges at right angle to floor joists and staggered so end joints in adjacent panels break over different joists.
• 1” x 4” to 6” wide, square edged, kiln dried coniferous lumber, laid diagonally over 16” on center wooden joists. The ends of all boards are to be cut parallel to the center of the joists for solid bearing.
• 3/4” inch minimum O.S.B. on 19.2” center floor joists system properly nailed. When joist space is greater than 19.2”, flooring may exhibit minimum performance. Adequate and proper nailing as well as soundness of the sub-floor should be ascertained.
• Concrete sub-floors must be at least 60 days old, clean, level, sound and of sufficient compression strength (3000 lbs. P.S.I.) being sure that the surface is not slick. Any sections not leveled such as waviness, trowel marks, etc. are to be eliminated by grinding or the use of a leveling compound. Appropriate moisture test must be done prior to installation — Always document your readings.

WoodSubfloors

Plywood sub-floors must meet local building code requirements. They must be secure to the joists, free of squeaks and protruding fasteners. Check the moisture content of both sub-floor and hardwood flooring with a quality calibrated pin moisture. Wood sub-floor moisture must not exceed 12% moisture content, or 3% moisture content difference between hardwood flooring and sub-floor. If sub-floor moisture exceeds the amount aforementioned, the source of the moisture must be located and eliminated before installation.

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Concrete Subfloors

Concrete subfloors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil poly-film between the concrete and ground. Lightweight concrete can hold more moisture and may take longer to dry out to an acceptable moisture content. A moisture barrier is required over all concrete subfloors. Installations over concrete require the use of a Calcium Chloride test per ASTM F 1869, or ASTM F2170 in-situ Relative Humidity test using probes inserted into holes drilled into the concrete. Test all areas where wood will be installed. The results of the Calcium Chloride test should not exceed 3 lbs per 24 hours per 1000 square feet and in-situ test results should not exceed 75% RH. Carefully record all testing results. These tests give a snapshot of moisture conditions at the time of the test, but do not reflect the permanent year-round condition of the substrate. If gluing down on concrete that is on or below grade, it is highly recommended to use a concrete sealer approved by the manufacturer from the adhesive you have chosen, even if you believe the concrete is dry. A concrete slab on or below grade that measures dry today may become moist in the future and cause floor failure. Desertland Flooring is not responsible for site related moisture issues.

NOTE:

For planks wider than 6.5” less than 7.5”, follow the ‘Nail + Glue Assist’ Installation Instructions. Nail down installation is not recommended.

NOTE:

Nailing planks wider than 7.5” without a full spread adhesive will void all warranties. Nail down installation is not recommended.

Recommended Nail/Staple Systems:

Power Nail pneumatic Model 50P Flex: 18 gauge Porta Nail pneumatic Model 4614: 18 gauge Bostitch pneumatic Model EHF1838K: 18 gauge Primatech pneumatic Model Q550R: 18 gauge

ENGINEERED WOOD RECOMMENDED FASTENER SELECTION

Nail Down/Staple Installation Instructions

• Make sure to properly test subfloor before installation, following subfloor preparation instructions
• previously discussed.
• A 15 lb. felt paper moisture barrier should be applied to the plywood subfloor with 6” overlaps before installing the new wood floor per ASTM D-4869.
• Create a working line parallel to the starting wall, in multiples of our engineered plank width, to set up the baseline of installation.
• Starter Rows requires that installation be done by leading with the tongue. When starting at the wall, trim groove off the back of the boards being used for the starting row. Face nail the back edge of the board with 18- gauge nails. Then blind nail into the pocket above the tongue with one of approved nail/staple systems.
• Install the second row by sliding the groove side on to the tongue of the first row. Blind/edge nail it into place, with fasteners every 4" to 6" and 2" to 3" from each end joint. Stagger end joints at least 8”. Continue nailing and gluing 2-3 rows at a time in this manner across the room. Avoid creating “H” patterns (where an end joint is adjacent to another end joint in the second to last row installed). Use cut ends to start the subsequent row, discarding any pieces shorter than 8”.

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• Use adjustable pneumatic power hammer or nailing machine with 1 1/2” — 2” nails as is required and make sure nailing foot is appropriate to the nails/staples used. To avoid damage to the tongue be sure to adjust for proper pressure on the compressor.
• Add each additional row of flooring, watching the pattern repeat and offset or stagger the joints as desired. (Generally, joints should either match in a specific pattern or be staggered by no less than six inches). Finished areas should be covered with a breathable protective paper, NEVER PLASTIC, immediately after installation to prevent damage. Do not tape protective paper to the finished surface of the wood for extended periods of time. Install molding and trim. (Always fasten moldings to the wall, not the flooring.)
• Do not allow foot traffic on finished floor for 24 hours after installation is completed.

Nail + Glue Assist Installation Instructions

NOTE: Nail + Glue Assist installation is recommended when nailing down/staple planks over 6.5” wide and less than 7.5” wide. There are two recommended methods for glue assist.

Method one: Glue applied to subfloor

This option can be used on most products and is the most efficient to employ. Select the area of substrate on which you’ll be installing. As with any glue application, select an area that can be worked comfortably within the adhesive’s open time. Apply beads of adhesive directly to the subfloor perpendicular to the direction of the flooring boards. Place beads maximum of 12” apart. Place boards onto glued area as normal and set fasteners. Clean up any excess glue immediately according to glue manufacturer’s instructions.

Method two: Glue applied directly to floorboards.

This glue assist option is recommended for products with long fixed length boards. Apply adhesive to the underside of each board. Apply an 1/4” bead parallel to each end, approximately 1” from the end. Apply in an 1/4” bead a serpentine pattern down the length approximately in the center of the board, keeping the glue 1” in from the edges of the board. Carefully set the board in place (to avoid getting glue on other surfaces) then nail in as normal. Clean up any excess glue immediately according to glue manufacturer’s instructions. Glue end joints certain wide plank products also requiring gluing of the end joints for added stability.

• Make sure to properly test subfloor before installation, following subfloor preparation instructions previously discussed.
• Create a working line parallel to the starting wall, in multiples of our engineered plank width, to set up the baseline of installation.
• Trowel spread the adhesive on the subfloor along the chalk line wide enough to allow the first row of flooring to be installed, being careful not to cover the line. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for wet lay times before proceeding to the next step.
• Starter Rows requires that installation be done by leading with the tongue. When starting at the wall, trim groove off the back of the boards
• Being used for the starting row. Face nail the back edge of the board with 18- gauge nails. Then blind nail into the pocket above the tongue with one of approved nail/staple systems.
• Trowel spread enough adhesive to install 2-3 more rows.

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• Install the second row by sliding the groove side on to the tongue of the first row. Blind/edge nail into place, with fasteners every 4" to 6" and 2" to 3" from each end joint. Stagger end joints at least 8”. Continue nailing and gluing 2-3 rows at a time in this manner across the room. Avoid creating “H” patterns (where an end joint is adjacent to another end joint in the second to last row installed). Use cut ends to start subsequent row, discarding any pieces shorter than 8”.
• Use adjustable pneumatic power hammer or nailing machine with 1 ¹⁄2” — 2” nails as is required and make sure nailing foot is appropriate to the nails/staples used. To avoid damage to the tongue be sure to adjust for proper pressure on the compressor.
• Add each additional row of flooring, watching the pattern repeat and offsetting or staggering the joints as desired. Generally, joints should either match in a specific pattern or be staggered by no less than six inches. Finished areas should be covered with a breathable protective paper, NEVER PLASTIC, immediately after installation to prevent damage. Do not tape protective paper to the finished surface of the wood for an extended period of time.
• Install molding and trim. Always fasten moldings to the wall, not the flooring.
• Most adhesives require the installer clean adhesive off the flooring boards during installation. Follow adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for this procedure.
• Do not allow foot traffic on finished floor for 24 hours after installation is completed.

Disclaimer

Desertland Engineered Hardwood Flooring products are not warranted against squeaking, popping or crackling when using nail down/staple installation methods. Squeaking, popping or crackling is normal, and these symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry conditions.

GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

Recommended Adhesive:

Desertland Flex580 Sound Reduction, Premium Moisture Control, Polyurethane Flexible Wood Flooring Adhesive.

Glue Down Installation Instructions

• Desertland strongly recommends glue-down to be the best way to install engineered flooring.
• Make sure properly test subfloor before installation, following subfloor preparation instructions previously aforementioned.
• Apply a moisture barrier to slab. Bostik, Dri-Tac, Sika or Titebond are recommended.
• A urethane-based adhesive should be used exclusively. Bostik, Dri-Tac, Sika or Titebond is recommended.
• Create a working line parallel to the starting wall in order to set up the baseline of installation.
• Follow the spread rate and curing time suggested by the glue manufacturer. Spread glue evenly on the subfloor to cover an area appropriate to the number of planks that can be laid in time for best result of the glue.
• Lay one row of floor planks along the entire length of the work line. Add each additional row of flooring, while watching the pattern repeat and offsetting or staggering the joints as desired. Generally, joints should either match in a specific pattern or be staggered by no less than six inches.
• An ¹⁄2” expansion space should be left around the perimeter. Roll whole floor with an 150 lb roller within 3-6 hours after installation. Finished areas should be covered with a breathable protective paper, NEVER PLASTIC, immediately after installation to prevent damage. Do not tape protective paper to the finished surface of the wood for extended periods of time.
• Clean wet adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently using the manufacturers recommended remover. Use clean towels, changing frequently to prevent haze and residue. Contact the adhesive manufacturer for adhesive removal remedies.
• Do not allow foot traffic on finished floor for 24 hours after installation is completed.

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FLOATING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

Recommended Poly-form Underlayment:

IXPE Memory Foam Underlayment IIC 79 / STC 78, Thickness: 3mm, Roll Size: 200 sq.ft/roll Closed-cell crosslink polyethylene, excellent sound insulation and moisture resistance, lifetime performance.

Floating Installation Instructions

• Make sure to properly test subfloor before installation, following subfloor preparation instructions previously aforementioned. If needed, apply a moisture barrier to slab. Bostik, Dri-Tac, Sika or Titebond are recommended.
• After the moisture barrier has cured and dried apply a floating floor poly-foam underlayment, Eternity's Seal Guard Zero VOC, MP Global's Sound Buffer or Quiet Walk are recommended. Please follow manufacturers installation instructions.
• Floating floors is generally a more difficult installation to start, as the boards will move. It is imperative the first few rows be straight and gap free. Create a working line parallel to the starting wall, in multiples of our engineered plank width, to set up the baseline of installation. A bead of adhesive should be applied all along the TOP groove of each plank, any PVA glue meeting European DIN EN 204 D3 standard is recommended.
• Lay one row of flooring planks along the entire length of the work line. Work with thetongue side outward. NEVER engage material by striking the groove edge, use a tapping block against the tongue or board puller to avoid edge damage while engaging plank. Add each additional row of flooring, watching the pattern repeat and offsetting or staggering the joints as desired. Generally, joints should either match in a specific pattern or be staggered by no less than six inches.
• A minimum ¹⁄2” expansion space should be left around the perimeter.
• Finished areas should be covered with a breathable protective paper, NEVER PLASTIC, immediately after installation to prevent damage. Do not tape protective paper to the finished surface of the wood for extended periods of time.
• Do not allow foot traffic on the finished floor for 24 hours after installation is completed.

Disclaimer

Upon completion of the floating installation of a random length engineered wood floor, the floors surface may not appear as continuously flat as compared to a traditional long strip floating floor. Hollow sound and squeaking should be expected since the flooring is not secured to the subfloor by means of chemical fastening (gluing) or by mechanical fastening (staples, cleats or nails). Hollow sound is NOT a defect caused by manufacturing, but rather the result of the way in which the floor is put together.

RADIANT HEAT SYSTEMS

NOTE: Installations over radiant heated subfloors must use the ‘Glue Down’ or ‘Floating’ installation methods. DO NOT use the ‘Nail Down’ or ‘Nail + Glue Assist’ methods.

NOTE: Any product other than European and American Oak with a plank width wider than 8- 5/8” is NOT WARRANTED in installation over radiant heat system.

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Hardwood flooring works as an insulator. Heat-loss calculations designed for wood flooring installations should restrict the operating temperature of the radiant heat system to never allow the surface of the installed wood floor to exceed 80°F. If the ambient conditions of the airspace cannot sufficiently be maintained at 70°F with the radiant heating system operating at a maximum 20 BTU/hr/sf floor load, a supplemental heating system will be necessary. Separation of heating zones and thermostats, based on flooring type and temperature limitations, is required when multiple floor coverings are being installed over any radiant heating system. The radiant heating system should provide an even distribution of heat to the wood flooring surface. The wood floor surface temperature should vary no more than 3°F at any point within the installed wood floor. Wood flooring performs best with subtle changes in temperature. The floor should not fluctuate by more than 2°F per day. Items such as area rugs, mattresses, exercise mats, pet beds, bean bags, or other highly insulating products that cover the floor will trap heat and increase the temperature of the floor it is covering, which can result in irreversible damage to any type of floor. The end-user should consider the effects of heat build-up and subsequent flooring damage. All radiant heating systems should be fully operational, regardless of season, for a minimum of 7 days prior to delivery of wood flooring. Keeping the system on helps force out moisture and ensures the system is operational prior to the hardwood flooring installation. Most Desertland hardwood flooring can be installed over radiant heat, providing all of the necessary conditions are met. Successful wood floor installations occur when the radiant heat system professionals, the radiant heating system installer, the wood flooring installer, and the end-user all communicate and fully understand what is required for the entire flooring system being installed. A supplemental humidity control system is often necessary and should be specified into any radiant heat wood flooring project, in order to properly support ambient airspace conditions between 35% - 55% RH. Supplemental humidification should be present and operational prior to delivery, during, and post-installation of the wood flooring. With the heating source placed directly below the installed wood flooring, the moisture content will forcibly be reduced during the heating season if supplemental humidification is not added, monitored, and controlled. In-floor, or under-floor temperature and humidity data-logging devices are recommended to be installed by the radiant system installer or the flooring contractor, to monitor the conditions in the space after the floor has been placed into service. The end-user should have a clear understanding of the flooring product, maintenance requirements, humidification systems, data loggers, and the radiant heating system features, limitations, and abilities, to ensure adequate conditions are maintained year-round.

In all installations over radiant heat, the warranty will be void if any of the following system design,

installation, or operation requirements are not adhered to:

System Design

• The radiant heat system must be designed and warranted by the system manufacturer for use under wood flooring.
• The system must have in-floor temperature sensors in all heating zones and a control mechanism or cutoff that will never allow the surface temperature of the wood floor to exceed 80°F.
• It is highly recommended to install embedded data loggers (embedded in the back of the plank) such as a Floor Sentry® or Fidbox® that continuously record temperature and relative humidity. Data loggers should be installed in each separate heating zone. Data from these units can help prevent flooring failures by alerting the occupant to conditions that might void the warranty and damage the flooring.
• The radiant heat system must be a hydraulic system. Desertland products are not warranted over electric radiant heat systems.
• Radiant heat systems embedded in a cementitious subfloor must have a minimum of 3/4” of concrete or gypcrete above the heating system.
• The radiant heat system design engineer and radiant heat system installer should design the heating system to restrict the operating temperature to never allow the surface of the installed wood floor to exceed 80°F while being heated by the in-floor heating system.
• The radiant heat system, once fully operational, must have a maximum heat output of 20 BTU/hr/sf for each zone receiving wood flooring.

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• The system design must evenly distribute the heat across the entire wood floor area, such that the surface temperature of the wood floor never varies more than 3°F at any point in time across the surface of the heated flooring, as inspected with a thermal imager.
• The radiant heating elements must run perpendicular to the wood flooring planks.
• Thermal gain from windows can have a huge impact on the surface temperature of the floor. Window treatments such as UV-blocking films, blinds, drapes, etc. are often necessary to ensure compliance with the above requirements.
• Rugs, mattresses, exercise mats, pet beds, furniture without legs, or other insulating products that cover the floor will trap heat and increase the temperature of the floor, which can result in irreversible damage. When the floor is expected to be covered, the radiant heating design engineer and the radiant heating installer should calculate and factor in the R-value of the specific insulating item and make adjustments to the heating output as necessary. The end- user must be informed of the effects of heat build-up and subsequent damage.

Installation and Operation of System

• For concrete subfloors, conduct and document Calcium Chloride Tests per ASTM F1869. Test results must not exceed 2.0 lbs. per 1000 square feet per 24 hours.
• For wood subfloors, use a pin type meter to document the moisture content of the subfloor. Moisture readings should not exceed 8% in any location and readings for the subfloor must be within 2% of the flooring at the time of installation.
• For systems where the heating elements are embedded or installed below the subfloor, the heat must be on and operating at normal output for a minimum of 7 days prior to bringing the wood on site for acclimation, in order to allow any moisture in the subfloor to flash off.
• Wood flooring must be delivered to the jobsite and throughly acclimated to jobsite temperature and humidity conditions with the radiant heat system on and functioning.
• Wood flooring performs best with subtle changes in temperature. The floor temperature should never be increased or decreased by more than 2°F per day.
• Relative humidity at the jobsite must be maintained between 35% and 55% at all times. Failure to maintain proper humidity levels will void all warranties.
• The system must be kept on and within 15°F of normal operating temperature at all times.
• Temperature in the installation area must be controlled between 60°F and 80°F at all times.
• After installation, do not cover a radiant-heated wood floor with protective covering for longer than a few hours. Leaving any type of protective covering on top of a heated floor can create an ‘oven effect’ and damage the wood.
• Excessive or uneven heat, rapid heating, and/or failure to maintain humidity levels between 35% and 55% may cause cracking, cupping and other forms of failure and will void the warranty.

NOTE: In wood flooring installations over radiant heat, moderate surface checking, cracking (especially at the ends of boards and around knots), shrinkage, gapping between planks, and slight cupping are all to be expected and do not constitute a product defect. Also, failure to comply with these requirements may result in structural damage including wood shear which will not be covered by this warranty.

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Dahdoul Inc

23000 Wright Road, Lynwood, Ca, 90262 (310) 438-1938 Phone

Call Technical Support

Toll Free at (310) 438-1938

with All Technical Questions or Concerns

See Warranty & Maintenance for more information.

For more general installation instructions, see NWFA Installation Guideline for more details.

www.nwfa.org (800-422-4556)

WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the state of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.go/wood.

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LEA ANTES DE LA INSTALACIÓN

ADVERTENCIA DE INSTALACIÓN:

Las condiciones de instalación— incluyendo la temperatura, la exposición al sol y la humedad— pueden afectar significativamente el rendimiento a largo plazo de este producto. Para obtener los mejores resultados, la temperatura y la humedad del área de instalación deben coincidir con las condiciones normales de uso durante todo el año por lo menos una semana antes de la instalación.Todos los productos deben instalarse en un ambiente con una temperatura entre 60°F y 80°F y una humedad relativa entre 35% y 55%. No mantener estas condiciones puede provocar problemas en el piso tales como contracción, separación entre tablas, abombamiento (cupping) y fisuras en la superficie (face-checking). La instalación fuera de estos rangos recomendados o sobre un subsuelo húmedo probablemente causará movimiento en el piso, incluyendo posible contracción, levantamiento de bordes, separación entre piezas, abombamiento y fisuras en la superficie. DESERTLAND recomienda firmemente la instalación encolada (glue-down) como el mejor método para instalar su piso de madera de ingeniería, y el piso de madera de ingeniería DESERTLAND DEBE instalarse de acuerdo con las guías de instalación de la National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) para que las Garantías Limitadas sean válidas. La publicación más reciente de las guías de la NWFA está disponible para todos los miembros de la asociación y puede encontrarse en www.nwfa.org o llamando al (800) 422-4556.

RESPONSABILIDAD DEL PROPIETARIO / INSTALADOR:

Como producto natural, la madera dura presenta variaciones inherentes en el color, la veta, la apariencia y otras imperfecciones visuales. Como producto natural, la madera dura presenta variaciones inherentes en el color, la veta, la apariencia y otras características visuales. DESERTLAND Engineered Hardwood Flooring se fabrica de acuerdo con los estándares de la industria, los cuales permiten una tolerancia de defectos de hasta un 5%. Estas variaciones naturales no se consideran defectos. El piso debe inspeccionarse cuidadosamente antes de la instalación. Cualquier tabla que se considere inaceptable no debe instalarse y puede ser reemplazada de acuerdo con nuestra garantía limitada. Una vez instalado, el piso se considera aceptado tanto por el instalador como por el propietario. Es responsabilidad exclusiva del instalador asegurarse de que el sitio de trabajo, el subsuelo, las condiciones de humedad y todas las herramientas y materiales cumplan o superen los estándares de la industria. DESERTLAND recomienda firmemente utilizar un instalador certificado por la NWFA o consultar con su distribuidor para obtener profesionales de instalación aprobados.DESERTLAND Flooring recomienda encarecidamente utilizar un instalador de pisos certificado por la NWFA o consultar con el distribuidor donde realizó su compra para obtener un instalador autorizado. DESERTLAND Flooring no asume ninguna responsabilidad por problemas derivados de una preparación incorrecta o inadecuada del sitio o de procedimientos de instalación incorrectos.

CONDICIONES DEL SITIO DE TRABAJO Y PLANIFICACIÓN PREVIA A LA INSTALACIÓN

Información General

• El edificio debe estar completamente cerrado y contar con control climático. Todas las puertas y ventanas exteriores deben estar instaladas, cerradas y en pleno funcionamiento para garantizar condiciones ambientales estables. Todo el concreto, la mampostería, el enlucido, los paneles de yeso y la pintura deben estar completamente terminados.

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• Los sistemas HVAC deben estar completamente operativos durante al menos 14 días antes de la
• instalación del piso, para garantizar que la temperatura y la humedad se hayan estabilizado a condiciones normales de ocupación.
• Se recomienda mantener una temperatura ambiente constante entre 60°F y 80°F y una humedad relativa entre 35% y 55%, y que estas condiciones se mantengan durante todo el año. Esto es necesario para estabilizar el ambiente interior del edificio y también es esencial al aclimatar el piso de madera al sitio de instalación. La madera es un material higroscópico que se expande y contrae según el nivel de humedad relativa del ambiente.
• El piso debe almacenarse en un área con control climático, igual a las condiciones del área donde será instalado, durante 5 a 7 días antes de la instalación. NO ABRA las cajas hasta que esté listo para instalar.
• La nivelación exterior del terreno, la correcta dirección del drenaje lejos de la estructura, así como la instalación de canaletas y bajantes, deben estar completadas. Los pisos pueden instalarse a nivel del suelo, sobre el nivel del suelo o bajo el nivel del suelo, y no se recomiendan para baños completos.
• Es esencial que los sótanos y los espacios de arrastre (crawl spaces) estén bien ventilados y secos. Los espacios de arrastre deben tener un mínimo de 24 pulgadas desde el suelo hasta la parte inferior de las vigas. Debe instalarse una barrera de vapor en los espacios de arrastre utilizando una lámina de
• polietileno de 6 mil, con las juntas superpuestas y selladas con cinta.
• Durante la inspección final previa a la instalación, el subsuelo debe revisarse para verificar el contenido de humedad utilizando el medidor adecuado tanto para madera como para concreto.
• Trabaje con varias cajas diferentes al mismo tiempo para obtener la mejor distribución de color, veta y variación de tonos.
• Recorte los marcos de las puertas para evitar cortes difíciles de ajuste y retire todos los zócalos
• existentes, molduras, cuartos de círculo o umbrales de puertas. Estos elementos pueden reinstalarse después de la instalación, pero deben colocarse de manera que permitan al menos ½” de espacio para expansión. Consulte las Guías de Instalación de la NWFA para más detalles.
• El piso de madera se expandirá y contraerá con los cambios de temperatura y humedad ambiental. Para permitir este movimiento natural, deje un espacio de expansión de ½” alrededor del perímetro durante la instalación.

HERRAMIENTAS ÚTILES

• Lápiz
• Línea de tiza
• Nivel de 6’ o nivel de 10’
• Sierra ingletadora
• Sierra de mesa
• Hojas de sierra con punta de carburo de 60 dientes
• Escoba
• Sierra para marcos (jamb saw)
• Protección para los ojos
• Mascarilla contra el polvo
• Guantes
• Grapadora para pisos de madera de ingeniería
• Sujetadores para piso
• Higrómetro (para medir la temperatura y la humedad del hogar)
• Cinta azul para pintor (2080)

• Pegamento para madera PVA
• Compresor de aire con regulador
• Manguera de aire
• Juego de brocas
• Martillo
• Cinta métrica
• Medidor de humedad (madera)
• Prueba de humedad con cloruro de calcio (concreto)
• Removedor de adhesivo aprobado (para instalaciones encoladas)
• Trapos de tela
• Botador de clavos (nail set)
• Taladro
• Clavos de acabado 6d
• Sierra caladora
• Protección auditiva

Preparación del Subsuelo

El instalador y el propietario son conjunta y exclusivamente responsables de garantizar que el subsuelo sea adecuado para la aplicación del piso y que esté correctamente preparado para la instalación.

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Preparación del Subsuelo

El instalador y el propietario son conjunta y exclusivamente responsables de garantizar que el subsuelo sea adecuado para la aplicación del piso y esté correctamente preparado para la instalación.

Condiciones del Subsuelo

• Debe estar limpio y libre de cera, pintura, aceite, yeso y residuos. Todos los pegamentos o adhesivos anteriores o existentes deben eliminarse completamente antes de comenzar la instalación. Puede ser necesario utilizar papel abrasivo de grano abierto #3½ para pulir un subsuelo de concreto. Esto ayudará a aflojar cualquier suciedad, concreto o contaminante. Barra o aspire minuciosamente.
• Debe estar nivelado dentro de una tolerancia de 3/16” por cada 8 pies o 1/8” por cada 6 pies. Si se requiere preparación del subsuelo, las “elevaciones” deben lijarse y las “depresiones” deben rellenarse con un parche de nivelación para subsuelos. Las irregularidades y ondulaciones del subsuelo pueden provocar que la instalación del piso de madera desarrolle espacios huecos entre el piso y el subsuelo. Estos espacios huecos NO son resultado de defectos de fabricación del piso de madera y NO están cubiertos por la garantía.
• Debe ser estructuralmente sólido y estar correctamente asegurado con clavos o tornillos cada 6” a lo largo de las vigas para reducir la posibilidad de crujidos después de la instalación. Clave o atornille cualquier área suelta que produzca ruido o presente movimiento y reemplace cualquier subsuelo o base dañada.
• Debe estar seco y cubierto de pared a pared con fieltro asfáltico de 15 lb. Superponga los bordes del fieltro 4” al colocarlo. Duplique el fieltro alrededor de los conductos de calefacción en el piso. Es esencial que los sótanos y los espacios de arrastre estén bien ventilados y secos. Los espacios de arrastre deben tener un mínimo de 24” desde el suelo hasta la parte inferior de las vigas. Debe instalarse una barrera de vapor en los espacios de arrastre utilizando una lámina de polietileno de 6 mil, con las uniones superpuestas y selladas con cinta.
• Todos los subsuelos deben ser probados para verificar el contenido de humedad. Consulte a continuación los métodos adecuados de medición de humedad.

Subpisos Aceptables

• • Madera contrachapada exterior con un espesor mínimo de 5/8” (se prefiere 3/4” o mayor), instalada con los bordes largos en ángulo recto con respecto a las vigas del piso y escalonada de modo que las juntas de los extremos en paneles adyacentes descansen sobre vigas diferentes.
• • Madera de coníferas seca en horno, de 1” x 4” a 6” de ancho, con bordes cuadrados, instalada en forma diagonal sobre vigas de madera espaciadas a 16” al centro. Los extremos de todas las tablas deben cortarse paralelos al centro de las vigas para garantizar un apoyo sólido.
• • OSB con un espesor mínimo de 3/4”, instalado sobre un sistema de vigas de piso espaciadas a 19.2” al centro, correctamente clavado. Cuando el espaciamiento de las vigas sea mayor a 19.2”, el piso puede presentar un rendimiento mínimo. Debe verificarse un clavado adecuado y la solidez del subsuelo.
• • Subpisos de concreto deben tener al menos 60 días de curado, estar limpios, nivelados, estructuralmente sólidos y contar con una resistencia a la compresión suficiente (3000 PSI), asegurándose de que la superficie no sea resbalosa. Cualquier área desnivelada, como ondulaciones, marcas de llana u otras imperfecciones, debe eliminarse mediante pulido o mediante el uso de un compuesto nivelador.
• Antes de la instalación, debe realizarse una prueba de humedad adecuada. Siempre documente las lecturas obtenidas.

Subpisos de Madera

Los subpisos de madera contrachapada deben cumplir con los requisitos del código de construcción local. Deben estar firmemente asegurados a las vigas, libres de crujidos y sin sujetadores sobresalientes. Verifique el contenido de humedad tanto del subsuelo como del piso de madera utilizando un medidor de humedad con pines, calibrado y de buena calidad. El contenido de humedad del subsuelo de madera no debe exceder el 12%, ni debe existir una diferencia de humedad mayor al 3% entre el piso de madera y el subsuelo. Si la humedad del subsuelo excede los valores mencionados anteriormente, la fuente de humedad debe localizarse y eliminarse antes de la instalación.

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Subpisos de Concreto

Los subpisos de concreto deben estar completamente curados, con una antigüedad mínima de 60 días, y deben contar con una lámina de polietileno de al menos 6 mil entre el concreto y el terreno. El concreto liviano puede retener mayor humedad y puede requerir más tiempo para secarse hasta alcanzar un nivel de humedad aceptable. Se requiere una barrera de humedad sobre todos los subpisos de concreto. Las instalaciones sobre concreto requieren el uso de una prueba de Cloruro de Calcio conforme a ASTM F1869, o una prueba de Humedad Relativa in situ conforme a ASTM F2170, utilizando sondas insertadas en orificios perforados en el concreto. Deben probarse todas las áreas donde se instalará el piso de madera. Los resultados de la prueba de Cloruro de Calcio no deben exceder 3 lb por 24 horas por cada 1,000 pies cuadrados, y los resultados de la prueba in situ no deben exceder 75% de HR. Registre cuidadosamente todos los resultados de las pruebas. Estas pruebas proporcionan una referencia de las condiciones de humedad en el momento de la medición, pero no reflejan necesariamente las condiciones permanentes del sustrato durante todo el año. Si se va a realizar una instalación encolada sobre concreto que esté a nivel del suelo o por debajo del nivel del suelo, se recomienda encarecidamente utilizar un sellador de concreto aprobado por el fabricante del adhesivo seleccionado, incluso si se considera que el concreto está seco. Una losa de concreto a nivel o por debajo del nivel del suelo que hoy mida seca puede volverse húmeda en el futuro y provocar fallas en el piso. Desertland Flooring no se hace responsable de problemas de humedad relacionados con el sitio de instalación.

NOTA:

Para tablas con un ancho mayor a 6.5” y menor de 7.5”, siga las Instrucciones de Instalación “Clavado + Asistencia con Adhesivo (Nail + Glue Assist)”. La instalación únicamente clavada no es recomendada.

NOTA:

Clavar tablas con un ancho mayor a 7.5” sin un adhesivo de cobertura total anulará todas las garantías. La instalación únicamente clavada no es recomendada.

Sistemas de Clavado/Grapado Recomendados:

• Power Nail neumático Modelo 50P Flex: calibre 18
• Porta Nail neumático Modelo 4614: calibre 18
• Bostitch neumático Modelo EHF1838K: calibre 18
• Primatech neumático Modelo Q550R: calibre 18

SELECCIÓN RECOMENDADA DE SUJETADORES PARA MADERA DE INGENIERÍA

Instrucciones de Instalación con Clavos o Grapas

• Asegúrese de probar adecuadamente el subsuelo antes de la instalación, siguiendo las instrucciones de preparación del subsuelo previamente indicadas.
• Se debe aplicar una barrera de humedad de fieltro de 15 lb sobre el subsuelo de madera contrachapada, con solapes de 6”, antes de instalar el nuevo piso de madera, conforme a la norma ASTM D-4869.
• Cree una línea de trabajo paralela a la pared de inicio, en múltiplos del ancho del tablón de madera de ingeniería, para establecer la línea base de la instalación.

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• Las filas de inicio requieren que la instalación se realice comenzando con el lado de la lengüeta hacia adelante. Al comenzar junto a la pared, corte la ranura en la parte posterior de las tablas que se utilizarán para la fila inicial. Clave la parte posterior de la tabla con clavos de calibre 18 (clavado visible). Luego, clave en ángulo dentro del bolsillo sobre la lengüeta (clavado oculto) utilizando uno de los sistemas de clavos o grapas aprobados.
• Instale la segunda fila deslizando el lado de la ranura sobre la lengüeta de la primera fila. Realice un clavado oculto (clavado en ángulo/borde) para fijarla, colocando sujetadores cada 4” a 6” y a una distancia de 2” a 3” de cada junta final. Escalone las juntas finales al menos 8” entre sí. Continúe clavando y pegando de 2 a 3 filas a la vez de esta manera a lo largo de la habitación. Evite crear patrones en “H” (cuando una junta final queda alineada con la de la penúltima fila instalada). Use los extremos cortados para comenzar la fila siguiente, descartando cualquier pieza que mida menos de 8”.
• Utilice un martillo neumático ajustable o una clavadora neumática con clavos de 1 ½” a 2”, según sea necesario, y asegúrese de que la base de clavado sea adecuada para los clavos o grapas que se estén utilizando. Para evitar daños en la lengüeta, asegúrese de ajustar correctamente la presión del compresor.
• Agregue cada fila adicional de piso, prestando atención al patrón de repetición y desplazando o escalonando las juntas según se desee. (Por lo general, las juntas deben coincidir en un patrón específico o estar escalonadas con un mínimo de seis pulgadas). Las áreas terminadas deben cubrirse inmediatamente después de la instalación con papel protector transpirable, NUNCA PLÁSTICO, para evitar daños. No adhiera el papel protector directamente a la superficie terminada de la madera por períodos prolongados.
• Instale las molduras y los acabados. (Fije siempre las molduras a la pared, nunca al piso).
• No permita el tránsito peatonal sobre el piso terminado durante las primeras 24 horas después de completar la instalación.

Aviso Legal

Los productos de Desertland Engineered Hardwood Flooring no están garantizados contra crujidos, chasquidos o ruidos cuando se utilizan métodos de instalación clavados o engrapados. Los crujidos, chasquidos o ruidos son normales y pueden acentuarse en zonas áridas o durante condiciones de baja humedad.

Instrucciones de Instalación: Clavado + Asistencia con Adhesivo

NOTA: La instalación Clavado + Asistencia con Adhesivo se recomienda cuando se clavan o engrapan tablas con un ancho mayor a 6.5” y menor de 7.5”. Existen dos métodos recomendados para la asistencia con adhesivo.

Método Uno: Adhesivo aplicado al subsuelo

Esta opción puede utilizarse con la mayoría de los productos y es la más eficiente. Seleccione el área del sustrato donde se realizará la instalación. Como en cualquier aplicación de adhesivo, elija un área que pueda trabajarse cómodamente dentro del tiempo abierto del adhesivo. Aplique cordones de adhesivo directamente sobre el subsuelo, perpendiculares a la dirección de las tablas del piso. Coloque los cordones con una separación máxima de 12”. Instale las tablas sobre el área encolada de manera normal y coloque los sujetadores. Limpie inmediatamente cualquier exceso de adhesivo de acuerdo con las instrucciones del fabricante del adhesivo.

• Asegúrese de probar correctamente el subsuelo antes de la instalación, siguiendo las instrucciones de preparación del subsuelo previamente indicadas.
• Cree una línea de trabajo paralela a la pared inicial, en múltiplos del ancho de la tabla de madera de ingeniería, para establecer la línea base de la instalación.

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• Aplique el adhesivo con llana sobre el subsuelo a lo largo de la línea de tiza, con un ancho suficiente para permitir la instalación de la primera fila del piso, teniendo cuidado de no cubrir la línea. Siga las recomendaciones del fabricante del adhesivo respecto a los tiempos de colocación en húmedo antes de continuar con el siguiente paso.
• Las filas iniciales requieren que la instalación se realice colocando primero la lengüeta. Al comenzar junto a la pared, retire la ranura de la parte posterior de las tablas que se utilizarán en la fila inicial.
• Clave de frente el borde posterior de la tabla utilizando clavos calibre 18. Luego, realice el clavado oculto en el canal ubicado sobre la lengüeta utilizando uno de los sistemas de clavado/grapado aprobados.
• Aplique con llana suficiente adhesivo para instalar 2 a 3 filas adicionales.

Aviso Legal

Los productos de Desertland Engineered Hardwood Flooring no están garantizados contra crujidos, chasquidos o ruidos cuando se utilizan métodos de instalación clavados o engrapados. Los crujidos, chasquidos o ruidos son normales y pueden intensificarse en zonas áridas o durante condiciones secas.

GUÍAS DE INSTALACIÓN ENCOLADA

Adhesivo Recomendado:

Desertland Flex580 Adhesivo flexible de poliuretano para pisos de madera, con reducción de sonido y control premium de humedad.

Instrucciones de Instalación Encolada

• DESERTLAND recomienda firmemente la instalación encolada como el mejor método para instalar pisos de madera de ingeniería.
• Asegúrese de probar correctamente el subsuelo antes de la instalación, siguiendo las instrucciones de preparación del subsuelo mencionadas anteriormente.
• Aplique una barrera de humedad sobre la losa de concreto. Se recomiendan productos Bostik, Dri-Tac, Sika o Titebond.
• Debe utilizarse exclusivamente un adhesivo a base de uretano. Se recomiendan Bostik, Dri-Tac, Sika o Titebond.
• Cree una línea de trabajo paralela a la pared inicial para establecer la línea base de la instalación.
• Siga la tasa de aplicación y el tiempo de curado sugeridos por el fabricante del adhesivo. Extienda el adhesivo de manera uniforme sobre el subsuelo, cubriendo un área adecuada para la cantidad de tablas que puedan instalarse dentro del tiempo óptimo de trabajo del adhesivo.
• Instale una fila de tablas a lo largo de toda la línea de trabajo. Agregue cada fila adicional observando la repetición del patrón y desplazando o escalonando las juntas según se desee. Generalmente, las juntas deben alinearse siguiendo un patrón específico o escalonarse con una separación mínima de 6 pulgadas.
• Debe dejarse un espacio de expansión de ½” alrededor de todo el perímetro. Pase un rodillo de 150 lb sobre toda la superficie del piso dentro de las 3 a 6 horas posteriores a la instalación.
• Las áreas terminadas deben cubrirse inmediatamente después de la instalación con un papel protector transpirable; NUNCA PLÁSTICO, para evitar daños. No adhiera el papel protector a la superficie terminada de la madera por períodos prolongados.
• Limpie con frecuencia el adhesivo húmedo de la superficie del piso utilizando el removedor recomendado por el fabricante del adhesivo. Use toallas limpias y cámbielas con frecuencia para evitar velos o residuos. Para soluciones específicas de eliminación de adhesivo, comuníquese con el fabricante del adhesivo.
• No permita tránsito peatonal sobre el piso terminado durante 24 horas después de que se haya completado la instalación.

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GUÍAS DE INSTALACIÓN FLOTANTE

Base/Underlayment de Poliforma Recomendada:

IXPE Memory Foam Underlayment IIC 79 / STC 78, Espesor: 3 mm, Tamaño del rollo: 200 pies² por rollo Polietileno de celda cerrada y reticulado, con excelente aislamiento acústico y resistencia a la humedad, y rendimiento de por vida.

Instrucciones de Instalación Flotante

• Asegúrese de probar correctamente el subsuelo antes de la instalación, siguiendo las instrucciones de preparación del subsuelo mencionadas anteriormente. Si es necesario, aplique una barrera de humedad sobre la losa. Se recomiendan productos Bostik, Dri-Tac, Sika o Titebond.
• Después de que la barrera de humedad haya curado y secado, instale una base de espuma para piso flotante. Se recomiendan Eternity Seal Guard Zero VOC, MP Global Sound Buffer o Quiet Walk. Siga las instrucciones de instalación del fabricante.
• La instalación de pisos flotantes suele ser más difícil al inicio, ya que las tablas tienden a moverse. Es imprescindible que las primeras filas estén rectas y sin separaciones. Cree una línea de trabajo paralela a la pared inicial, en múltiplos del ancho de la tabla de madera de ingeniería, para establecer la línea base de la instalación. Aplique un cordón de adhesivo a lo largo de la PARTE SUPERIOR de la ranura de cada tabla. Se recomienda cualquier pegamento PVA que cumpla con la norma europea DIN EN 204 D3.
• Instale una fila de tablas a lo largo de toda la línea de trabajo, trabajando con la lengüeta orientada hacia afuera. NUNCA encaje el material golpeando el borde de la ranura; utilice un bloque de golpeo contra la lengüeta o un extractor de tablas para evitar daños en los bordes al ensamblar las piezas.
• Agregue cada fila adicional observando la repetición del patrón y desplazando o escalonando las juntas según se desee. Generalmente, las juntas deben alinearse siguiendo un patrón específico o escalonarse con una separación mínima de 6 pulgadas.
• Debe dejarse un espacio mínimo de expansión de ½” alrededor de todo el perímetro.
• Las áreas terminadas deben cubrirse inmediatamente después de la instalación con un papel protector transpirable; NUNCA PLÁSTICO, para evitar daños. No adhiera el papel protector a la superficie terminada de la madera por períodos prolongados.
• No permita tránsito peatonal sobre el piso terminado durante 24 horas después de que se haya completado la instalación.

Aviso Legal

Una vez completada la instalación flotante de un piso de madera de ingeniería de longitudes aleatorias, la superficie del piso puede no verse tan uniformemente plana como un piso flotante tradicional de tablas largas. Es normal que se presenten sonidos huecos y crujidos, ya que el piso no está fijado al subsuelo mediante sujeción química (adhesivo) ni sujeción mecánica (grapas, cleats o clavos). El sonido hueco NO es un defecto de fabricación, sino el resultado del método de ensamblaje del piso.

SISTEMAS DE CALEFACCIÓN RADIANTE

NOTA: Las instalaciones sobre subsuelos con calefacción radiante deben realizarse utilizando los métodos de instalación Encolado (Glue-Down) o Flotante (Floating). NO utilice los métodos Clavado (Nail Down) ni Clavado + Asistencia con Adhesivo (Nail + Glue Assist).

NOTA: Cualquier producto que no sea Roble Europeo o Roble Americano, con un ancho de tabla mayor a 8-5/8”, NO CUENTA CON GARANTÍA para instalaciones sobre sistemas de calefacción radiante.

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Los pisos de madera funcionan como aislantes. Los cálculos de pérdida de calor diseñados para instalaciones de pisos de madera deben limitar la temperatura de operación del sistema de calefacción radiante, de modo que la superficie del piso de madera instalado nunca exceda los 80°F. Si las condiciones ambientales del espacio no pueden mantenerse adecuadamente a 70°F con el sistema de calefacción radiante operando a una carga máxima de 20 BTU/hora/pie², será necesario un sistema de calefacción suplementario. Cuando se instalan múltiples tipos de revestimientos de piso sobre un sistema de calefacción radiante, es obligatorio separar las zonas de calefacción y los termostatos según el tipo de piso y sus limitaciones de temperatura. El sistema de calefacción radiante debe proporcionar una distribución uniforme del calor sobre la superficie del piso de madera. La temperatura de la superficie del piso no debe variar más de 3°F en ningún punto del área instalada. Los pisos de madera funcionan mejor con cambios graduales de temperatura; la temperatura del piso no debe fluctuar más de 2°F por día. Elementos como alfombras, colchones, tapetes de ejercicio, camas para mascotas, pufs (bean bags) u otros productos altamente aislantes que cubran el piso atraparán el calor y aumentarán la temperatura del área cubierta, lo que puede provocar daños irreversibles en cualquier tipo de piso. El usuario final debe considerar los efectos de la acumulación de calor y los posibles daños consecuentes al piso. Todos los sistemas de calefacción radiante deben estar completamente operativos, independientemente de la temporada, durante un mínimo de 7 días antes de la entrega del piso de madera. Mantener el sistema encendido ayuda a eliminar la humedad y garantiza que el sistema esté funcionando correctamente antes de la instalación del piso. La mayoría de los pisos de madera Desertland pueden instalarse sobre sistemas de calefacción radiante, siempre que se cumplan todas las condiciones necesarias. Las instalaciones exitosas ocurren cuando los profesionales del sistema de calefacción radiante, el instalador del sistema, el instalador del piso de madera y el usuario final se comunican claramente y comprenden plenamente los requisitos del sistema completo que se está instalando. Con frecuencia es necesario un sistema suplementario de control de humedad, el cual debe especificarse en cualquier proyecto de pisos de madera sobre calefacción radiante, para mantener condiciones ambientales adecuadas entre 35% y 55% de humedad relativa. La humidificación suplementaria debe estar presente y en funcionamiento antes de la entrega, durante y después de la instalación del piso de madera. Cuando la fuente de calor se encuentra directamente debajo del piso de madera instalado, el contenido de humedad se reducirá forzosamente durante la temporada de calefacción si no se añade, supervise y controle una humidificación suplementaria. Se recomienda que el instalador del sistema radiante o el contratista del piso instale dispositivos de registro de datos de temperatura y humedad, ya sea dentro o debajo del piso, para monitorear las condiciones del espacio una vez que el piso esté en servicio. El usuario final debe tener una comprensión clara del producto del piso, los requisitos de mantenimiento, los sistemas de humidificación, los registradores de datos y las características, limitaciones y capacidades del sistema de calefacción radiante, para garantizar que se mantengan condiciones adecuadas durante todo el año.

En todas las instalaciones sobre sistemas de calefacción radiante, la garantía quedará anulada si no

se cumplen cualquiera de los siguientes requisitos de diseño, instalación u operación del sistema:

Diseño del Sistema

• El sistema de calefacción radiante debe estar diseñado y garantizado por el fabricante del sistema para su uso bajo pisos de madera.
• El sistema debe contar con sensores de temperatura integrados en el piso en todas las zonas de calefacción y con un mecanismo de control o corte que nunca permita que la temperatura de la superficie del piso de madera exceda los 80°F.

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• Se recomienda encarecidamente instalar registradores de datos integrados (incrustados en la parte posterior de la tabla), tales como Floor Sentry® o Fidbox®, que registren continuamente la temperatura y la humedad relativa. Los registradores de datos deben instalarse en cada zona de calefacción independiente. Los datos de estos dispositivos pueden ayudar a prevenir fallas del piso al alertar al ocupante sobre condiciones que podrían anular la garantía y dañar el piso.
• El sistema de calefacción radiante debe ser un sistema hidráulico. Los productos Desertland no están garantizados para su instalación sobre sistemas de calefacción radiante eléctricos.
• Los sistemas de calefacción radiante integrados en un subsuelo cementicio deben contar con un mínimo de 3/4” de concreto o gypcrete por encima del sistema de calefacción.
• El ingeniero de diseño del sistema de calefacción radiante y el instalador del sistema deben diseñar el sistema de manera que limite la temperatura de operación, asegurando que la superficie del piso de madera instalado nunca exceda los 80°F durante el funcionamiento del sistema.
• Una vez que el sistema de calefacción radiante esté completamente operativo, debe tener una salida máxima de calor de 20 BTU/hora/pie² para cada zona donde se instale piso de madera.
• El diseño del sistema debe distribuir el calor de manera uniforme en toda el área del piso de madera, de modo que la temperatura de la superficie del piso no varíe más de 3°F en ningún punto de la superficie calefaccionada en un mismo momento, según se verifique mediante una cámara termográfica.
• Los elementos de calefacción radiante deben instalarse perpendiculares a las tablas del piso de madera.
• La ganancia térmica proveniente de las ventanas puede tener un impacto significativo en la temperatura de la superficie del piso. A menudo es necesario utilizar tratamientos para ventanas, como películas bloqueadoras de rayos UV, persianas, cortinas u otros, para garantizar el cumplimiento de los requisitos mencionados anteriormente.
• Las alfombras, colchones, tapetes de ejercicio, camas para mascotas, muebles sin patas u otros productos aislantes que cubran el piso atraparán el calor y aumentarán la temperatura de la superficie, lo que puede provocar daños irreversibles. Cuando se prevea que el piso estará cubierto, el ingeniero de diseño del sistema de calefacción radiante y el instalador del sistema deberán calcular y considerar el valor R del elemento aislante específico y realizar los ajustes necesarios en la salida de calefacción.
• El usuario final debe ser informado sobre los efectos de la acumulación de calor y los posibles daños consecuentes al piso.

Instalación y Operación del Sistema

• Para subpisos de concreto, realice y documente pruebas de Cloruro de Calcio conforme a ASTM F1869. Los resultados de la prueba no deben exceder 2.0 lb por cada 1,000 pies cuadrados en 24 horas.
• Para subpisos de madera, utilice un medidor de humedad con pines para documentar el contenido de humedad del subsuelo. Las lecturas de humedad no deben exceder el 8% en ninguna ubicación, y las lecturas del subsuelo deben estar dentro de un 2% de diferencia con respecto al piso de madera en el momento de la instalación.
• En sistemas donde los elementos de calefacción estén incrustados o instalados debajo del subsuelo, el sistema de calefacción debe estar encendido y funcionando a su salida normal durante un mínimo de 7 días antes de llevar la madera al sitio para su aclimatación, permitiendo que cualquier humedad presente en el subsuelo se evapore.
• El piso de madera debe entregarse en el sitio de instalación y aclimatarse completamente a las condi- ciones de temperatura y humedad del lugar, con el sistema de calefacción radiante encendido y en funcionamiento.
• Los pisos de madera funcionan mejor con cambios graduales de temperatura. La temperatura del piso nunca debe aumentarse ni disminuirse en más de 2°F por día.
• La humedad relativa en el sitio de instalación debe mantenerse entre 35% y 55% en todo momento. No mantener los niveles adecuados de humedad anulará todas las garantías.

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• El sistema debe mantenerse encendido en todo momento y dentro de 15°F de su temperatura normal de operación.
• La temperatura del área de instalación debe controlarse entre 60°F y 80°F en todo momento.
• Después de la instalación, no cubra un piso de madera con calefacción radiante con materiales de protección por más de unas pocas horas. Dejar cualquier tipo de cubierta protectora sobre un piso calefaccionado puede crear un “efecto horno” y dañar la madera.
• El calor excesivo o desigual, el calentamiento rápido y/o la falta de mantenimiento de la humedad relativa entre 35% y 55% pueden causar grietas, abombamiento (cupping) y otras formas de falla, y anularán la garantía.

NOTA: En las instalaciones de pisos de madera sobre sistemas de calefacción radiante, es normal que se presenten microfisuras superficiales, grietas (especialmente en los extremos de las tablas y alrededor de los nudos), contracción, separación entre tablas y ligero abombamiento (cupping). Estas condiciones son esperadas y no constituyen un defecto del producto.

Asimismo, el incumplimiento de estos requisitos puede provocar daños estructurales, incluyendo cizallamiento de la madera, los cuales no estarán cubiertos por esta garantía.

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Dahdoul Inc

23000 Wright Road, Lynwood, Ca, 90262 (310) 438-1938 Phone

Llame a Soporte Técnico

Línea gratuita: (310) 438-1938

Para todas las preguntas o inquietudes técnicas

Consulte la sección de Garantía y Mantenimiento para obtener más información.

Para instrucciones generales de instalación, consulte las Guías de Instalación de la NWFA

para más detalles.

www.nwfa.org

(800) 422-4556

ADVERTENCIA: Taladrar, cortar, lijar o mecanizar productos de madera puede exponerle al polvo de madera, una sustancia que el Estado de California reconoce como causante de cáncer. Evite inhalar el polvo de madera o utilice una mascarilla u otras medidas de protección personal.

Para más información, visite: www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood .